-
1
Make the pickled onions: Put onion in a bowl and season generously with salt and pepper.
-
2
Add serrano, 3 tablespoons orange juice and 2 tablespoons lime juice, then mix well.
-
3
Set aside for at least 15 minutes.
-
4
Combine and reserve remaining citrus juice for marinade.
-
5
Make the marinade: Put achiote, cinnamon, oregano and chipotle in a small stainless steel or glass bowl.
-
6
In a small dry skillet over medium heat, lightly toast cumin, cloves and allspice until fragrant, 1 minute or less.
-
7
Grind toasted spices to a powder in a spice mill or mortar, then add to other spices.
-
8
Add garlic, 1 large pinch salt and remaining citrus juice and stir to make a paste.
-
9
If very thick, add more lime juice.
-
10
(Note: achiote may stain surfaces or clothing.)
-
11
Season fish on both sides with salt and pepper.
-
12
Using a sharp knife, score skin at thickest parts, if desired.
-
13
Paint fish on both sides with marinade.
-
14
Squeeze a little lime juice over fish.
-
15
Chill for 45 minutes (or up to 2 hours).
-
16
Bring fish to room temperature and heat oven to 425 degrees.
-
17
Cut banana leaves crosswise into footlong lengths and soften by passing them briefly over a stovetop burner.
-
18
Rinse leaves and pat dry.
-
19
Lay a double thickness of leaves on a baking sheet and lay fish on it, skin-side down.
-
20
Top fish with a large handful of pickled onions.
-
21
Arrange tomato wedges over onions.
-
22
Sprinkle with salt and a little more lime juice.
-
23
Lay more leaves on top, then wrap like a package, tying with string or strips of leaf.
-
24
Bake for 25 minutes, then remove and let package rest, unopened, for 15 minutes.
-
25
Serve with remaining pickled onions.
