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1
Wash salmon inside and out and sprinkle inside with salt.
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2
Unfold 1 piece of cheesecloth on top of the other to make a double layer, then wrap fish snugly in it and tie ends (close to fish) with kitchen string.
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3
Place on poacher rack in poacher, then straddle poacher across 2 burners on stovetop.
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4
Add 6 quarts cold water (it should cover fish by 1 inch), lemon juice, vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns.
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5
Bring to a boil, partially covered, over high heat (this will take about 25 minutes; fish will register 145F on an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of fish).
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6
Transfer poacher to a metal rack and cool fish in broth, uncovered, 30 minutes.
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7
Then chill fish in poacher (do not pour off broth), uncovered, at least 8 hours.
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8
Lift fish on poacher rack out of broth and drain well, then transfer from rack to a large shallow baking pan and chill.
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9
Pour broth through a sieve into a large bowl.
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10
Transfer 8 cups broth to a 4-quart heavy pot, reserving remainder for another use.
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11
Add white wine, Madeira, thyme sprig, and salt and boil until reduced to 5 cups, 30 to 40 minutes.
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12
Cool 20 minutes.
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13
Wash reserved leek leaves and chopped leeks in a bowl of cold water, then lift out and drain well.
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14
Cut leaves into decorative strips.
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15
Blanch strips in a saucepan of boiling water 1 minute, then transfer to a bowl of ice and cold water.
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16
Drain and pat dry.
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17
Remove strings from cheesecloth, then open cheesecloth but don't remove it.
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18
Remove fatty strip and small bones (they look like a comb) from spine of fish from head to tail.
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19
Trim off any fat from edges of belly.
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20
Carefully remove bony section under gills, then remove skin and dark flesh from visible side (top) of fish by gently scraping with a small sharp knife.
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21
Using the cheesecloth, roll fish over onto platter and remove bony section under gills, then remove skin and dark flesh from other side of fish.
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22
Wipe platter clean, then cover fish with dampened paper towels and chill until aspic is ready.
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23
Whisk together reduced broth, chopped leek, carrot, celery, and egg whites and shells in a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot.
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24
Bring to a boil, whisking constantly, then reduce heat and cook at a bare simmer, undisturbed, over low heat 30 minutes.
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25
Ladle broth through sieve lined with a double thickness of dampened paper towels set over a 1-quart glass measure, then press firmly on solids.
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26
Soften gelatin in cold water in a 1-quart saucepan 1 minute.
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27
Add 3 cups broth and simmer, stirring, until gelatin is dissolved, about 2 minutes.
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28
Ladle 2/3 cup aspic into a metal bowl set in a larger bowl of ice and cold water.
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29
Let stand, stirring occasionally, just until aspic is the consistency of raw egg white.
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30
Remove bowl from ice water and spoon a thin layer of aspic over fish, then chill fish until aspic is set, about 10 minutes.
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31
Arrange leek garnish on fish and glaze fish with more aspic.
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32
Chill fish, uncovered, until ready to serve.
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33
Pour remaining aspic into a 13- by 9-inch baking dish and chill until firm, about 1 hour.
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34
Cut into 1/2-inch cubes, then arrange cubes around salmon.
