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1
Using a food processor, mince the onion, carrot, celery, 4 sage leaves, and the garlic into a fine-textured pestata.
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2
Pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil into the big skillet, and set over medium heat.
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3
Stir the pestata into the oil, season with 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until it has wilted and just starts to stick to the pan bottom.
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4
Scrape all of the pestata into a bowl to cool.
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5
Trim the chicken thighs of fat and any loose bits of flesh, and lay them open, boned side up, on a cutting board.
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6
One at a time, cover each thigh with a piece of plastic wrap, and pound it with a meat mallet (or other heavy implement) to an even thickness of about 1/2 inch.
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7
Sprinkle salt lightly on the flattened sides, using another 1/2 teaspoon in all.
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8
Spread a tablespoon or so of the cooled pestata in a thin layer on each thigh, almost to the edgesuse more or less depending on size.
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9
Fold the thighs over into thirds, as if folding a letter, and compress gently.
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10
Wrap a strip of bacon the long way around each bundle, so the open sides are partly sealed.
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11
Overlap the ends of the bacon and thread a toothpick through them to hold the strip in place.
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12
Pour the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil into the big skilletcleaned of pestataand set over medium-high heat.
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13
Lay all the chicken bundles in the pan, turning them when the bacon starts sizzling and rendering fat.
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14
Saute the fagottini for 5 minutes or longer, turning several times, so the bacon and chicken are lightly caramelized all over.
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15
As they brown, drop the remaining pestata by spoonfuls in between the bundles, along with the rest of the sage leaves, to cook on the pan bottom.
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16
When everything is sizzling, pour in the wine and bring to a bubbling simmer.
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17
Cook until the wine has reduced by half, turning the fagottini occasionally.
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18
Pour the crushed tomatoes (and juices) all over the bundles, and shake the pan to mix them with the wine.
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19
Season with the remaining teaspoon of salt, and bring the braising liquid to a boil over high heat.
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20
Cover the pan, adjust the heat to keep things bubbling steadily, and braise until the thighs are cooked through and tender, 25 to 30 minutes, depending on size.
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21
(If youre not sure, slice discreetly into one of the bundles to check for doneness.)
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22
If you want to finish the fagottini with a crisp gratinato topping, arrange a rack in the top part of your oven and preheat to 425 while the chicken braises.
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23
When the meat is done, uncover the skillet, raise the heat, and reduce the braising liquid a bit, exposing the tops of the thighs.
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24
Turn off the heat, and carefully pull the toothpicks out of the bundles.
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25
Sprinkle a teaspoon or so of grated cheese over each, and set the skillet in the oven.
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26
Bake about 10 minutes, until the gratinato is golden, the bacon very crisp, and the sauce quite thick.
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27
Remove from the oven carefully.
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28
To finish the fagottini on the stovetop: Reduce the braising juices in the uncovered pan a bit longer, until thickened to a sauce.
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29
Turn off the heat, pull out the toothpicks, sprinkle a teaspoon cheese over each, and set the cover back on for a minute, to melt the cheese.
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30
To serve the fagottini: set one (or more if theyre small) on a serving plate with sauce spooned around the hot bundle.
