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Instructions: Pick through beans, rinse and place in a pot or bowl with about 1 1/2 inches of water to cover; soak 4 to 6 hours at room temperature.
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When ready to cook, cut the bacon crosswise into narrow pieces; place in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the bacon is browned and the fat is rendered out.
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Add a little oil to the pot if there is not enough bacon fat, then add the onions. Cook until they begin to turn translucent, scraping the bottom of pot to help incorporate any browned bits. Add the garlic and briefly cook until aromatic.
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Pour in the sherry, and bring to a boil; let cook down a bit, then add broth, bay leaves, thyme, red pepper flakes and beans. Add water to cover beans by at least 1 inch, cover and reduce heat to a low simmer.
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Cook about 1 hour, stirring once or twice and checking the water level; if needed, add more to keep beans fully submerged.
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Add black pepper and salt lightly to taste. Add a large pinch of espress powder. Continue to cook until the beans are tender but not falling apart, another 1 to 1 1/2 hours, depending on the size and freshness of the beans.
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Place 1/2 to 1 cup of beans in a blender with enough broth to puree. Puree, then return to the dish to thicken to desired consistency. Adjust seasoning. Serve warm with thinly sliced basil, if desired.
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If made ahead and reheated, you will probably need to thin with a little water or broth. Leftovers can be frozen up to a couple of months.
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Per serving: 291 calories, 19 g protein, 37 g carbohydrate, 8 g fat (3 g saturated), 12 mg cholesterol, 166 mg sodium, 14 g fiber.
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Wine pairing: Try an everyday Malbec like the 2009 Alamos from Argentina ($13); for company, the 2008 Treana Mer Soleil Vineyard Central Coast White, a Viognier-Marsanne blend ($23) or a Mourvedre-based Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose (about $35).
