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1
In a large soup kettle, bring to a simmer 2 quarts of water and the sea salt.
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2
Add the bottle of white wine and permit the liquid to return to a simmer.
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3
Place a leaf of sage inside the cavity of each bird.
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4
Slide four or more of the quail into the simmering liquidsas many as will fit comfortably.
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5
As the liquids once more return to a gentle simmer, lower the flame and poach the birds for 10 to 12 minutes, until their breast flesh feels firm when poked a bit with a finger.
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6
The time will vary with the weight of the birds.
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7
If youve kept the liquid barely simmering and have resisted leaving the birds too long in their bath, their meat will be succulent, tender.
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8
Have on hand a brown paper bag or a rededicated pillowcase.
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9
While the quail poach, ready the sack by laying it on its side and fashioning a cushion of the herbs and garlic.
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10
One cannot use too many herbs for this purpose.
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11
Remove the quail from their poaching liquors with a large slotted spoon.
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12
Position the birds directly inside the herb-lined sack.
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13
Close the sack and continue the poaching process until all the quail are cooked and safely nested inside.
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14
If using chicken or capon, relieve the birds of their skins after the poaching process.
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15
Fasten the sack with some butchers twine and leave it to rest at cool room temperature for 8 or 10 hours or as many more as your patience permits.
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16
A Sard will tell you to let the birds rest for two days.
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17
When you are ready, serve the quail at room temperature as a starter course, presenting them on cushions of warm, just-toasted bread and glossing them with tears of good, green oil, flattering the savor of the herbed birds.
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18
Jugs of cold white wine are welcome.
