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1
Bloom the yeast.
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2
Measure out 1/2 cup warm water and check the temperature: It should be between 110 degrees F and 120 degrees F (comfortable bathwater temperature).
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3
Sprinkle the yeast into a large bowl, add the warm water and whisk in the sugar.
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4
Let sit 1 minute (it should bubble and froth slightly), then gently stir in 1 cup flour.
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5
Set aside near the stove while you prepare the dough.
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6
Make the dough.
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7
Mix the melted butter and milk in a mixer with the hook attachment on low speed.
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8
Add the eggs and mix until blended.
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9
Scrape in the yeast mixture and mix until incorporated.
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10
Add 6 1/2 cups flour and 1 tablespoon salt; mix until the dough forms a ball, 2 to 3 minutes, adding up to 1/2 cup more flour if the dough is too wet and sticky.
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11
Let it rise.
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12
Brush a large bowl with softened butter.
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13
Transfer the dough to the bowl, cover with a towel and let rise in a warm place, 2 hours to 2 hours, 30 minutes.
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14
The dough should double in volume.
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15
Shape the dough.
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16
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
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17
Dust a clean flat surface with flour and turn the dough out onto it.
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18
Flour your hands; gently press the dough into a 16-by-8-inch rectangle, about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick (don't use a rolling pin).
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19
Cut the dough.
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20
With the short side in front of you, cut the dough in half lengthwise with a floured knife.
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21
Then slice crosswise into 12 strips.
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22
Shape the dough.
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23
One at a time, fold each strip of dough unevenly in half so the top part slightly overlaps the bottom half, then tuck the overhang underneath.
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24
Place the rolls seam-side down on the prepared baking sheet in 3 tightly packed rows.
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25
(If making in advance, wrap the baking sheet tightly in plastic wrap and freeze up to 3 weeks.)
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26
Bake the rolls.
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27
Bake until the rolls are bursting at the seams and golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes.
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28
(If frozen, bake 25 minutes at 325 degrees F, then 10 minutes at 375 degrees F.) Remove from the oven and brush with softened butter.
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29
Sprinkle with salt and serve immediately.
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30
Photographs by Jim Franco