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Special equipment: a deep-fry thermometer
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For the French fries: In a deep pot or a tabletop fryer, heat the vegetable oil to 250 degrees F.
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Cut the potatoes into batons leaving the skin on (the pieces should be 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch by the full length of the potatoes).
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Rinse the potatoes under cold water.
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Fry the potatoes, in batches if necessary, until just tender but not mushy, about 4 minutes.
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There should be little to no color.
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Transfer the blanched fries onto a baking sheet and cool completely in the refrigerator.
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For the tartar sauce: Combine the mayonnaise, buttermilk, capers and relish in a bowl and whisk together.
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For the fried fish: Increase the heat under the pot of vegetable oil and heat the oil to 350 degrees F.
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In a bowl, combine the eggs, soda water and crushed ice.
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Add the flour and whisk the batter.
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Do not overmix.
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Place the panko in a second shallow bowl.
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Place some flour for dedging in a third shallow bowl.
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Season the fish with salt and pepper.
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Dredge each piece in the flour, then dip in the batter and then dredge in the panko.
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Deep fry the pieces of fish, in batches if necessary, until golden brown and crispy, 4 to 6 minutes.
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Remove from the fryer and allow to rest on a cooling rack for 5 to 10 minutes.
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While the fish rests, finish cooking the French fries.
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Bring the oil temperature back to 350 degrees F. Fry the French fries, in batches if necessary, until golden brown and crispy, 4 to 5 minutes.
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Toss the French fries in a bowl and season with salt and pepper.
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For plating: Mound some fries on each plate and place a piece of fish over the top.
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Serve the tartar sauce on side.