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To cook the pasta: bring a large pot of well-salted water (6 quarts or more) to the boil.
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Meanwhile, rinse the arugula leaves well, then drain and dry them in a salad spinner or with paper towels.
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Slice or chop the leaves into rough strips, about 1/2 inch wide.
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When the water is at a rolling boil, drop in the farro pasta, stir, and separate the strands.
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5
Return to the boil, and cook the pasta until al dente, stirring occasionally.
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6
As the pasta cooks, pour 4 tablespoons of the olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over low heat.
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Spoon in the ricotta, and break up the curds with a wooden spoon, spreading and gently warming the cheese and oil in the pandont let them get hot or start cooking.
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Season with 1 teaspoon salt.
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When the pasta is al dente, lift it from the pot, drain for a moment, and drop it into the skillet.
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Still over low heat, toss the pasta for a minute or more, until the strands are evenly coated with ricottaincorporate spoonfuls of hot pasta water if the ricotta is stiff and not flowing.
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Turn off the heat, sprinkle the grated cheese and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil on the pasta, and toss well again.
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Finally, scatter the shreds of arugula on top, and tumble into the pasta for a few moments, so the greens barely wilt.
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Serve immediately in warm bowls, with more grated cheese at the table.
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14
Ricotta is produced from whey, the liquid left after milk has been curdled to make cheese.
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In America, ricotta is usually made from the whey of cows milk, most of it manufactured into the bland, moist product you find in the dairy case.
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Fresh whole-milk ricotta is drier and tastier.
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Containing no preservatives, it is usually hand-packed into containers to be sold within a day or two.
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Such fresh ricotta can be quite goodit is what I use at homebut it still cant match the flavor of fresh ricotta in Italy, where more strongly flavored whey from sheeps milk, water buffalos milk, or goats milk is the foundation.
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In the hands of a master cheesemaker like my friend Gregorio Rotolo, near Scanno in Abruzzo, ricotta can become a true delicacy.
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The good news for us is that a new generation of artisan cheesemakers in America are producing fine sheeps- and goats-milk ricottas.
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Look for them at farmers markets and specialty shops.
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Or, for a treat from the Old World, you can order fresh sheeps-milk ricotta flown in from Italy, delivered to your door (see Sources, page 387, for these products).
