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If you are using a live crab, cook, clean, and remove the crabmeat as directed on page 322.
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Set the meat and the tomalley and fat aside.
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If you are using a precooked crab, follow only the directions for cleaning the crab and removing the crabmeat and tomalley and fat.
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Position a rack in middle of the oven and preheat to 400F.
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In a large skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat.
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Add the garlic and saute for about 30 seconds, or until fragrant.
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Add the onion and saute for about 2 minutes, or until soft.
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Add the pork and cook, stirring to breaking it up into smaller pieces, for about 2 minutes, or until it is no longer pink.
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Add the mushrooms and cellophane noodles, stir to combine, and let cook for about 1 minute.
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Add the tomalley and fat, fish sauce, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring, for 1 minute to blend the flavors.
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Remove from the heat and add the crabmeat, incorporating it gently to maintain nice chunks.
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Taste and add up to 1/2 teaspoon fish sauce if the flavor lacks depth.
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Put six 1/2-cup flameproof ramekins on a baking sheet.
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Distribute the crab mixture evenly among the dishes.
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The filling compacts as it bakes, so press down lightly as you fill the molds.
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Brush the tops with the egg yolk, then sprinkle each one with 1 teaspoon of the bread crumbs.
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Cut the remaining 1 tablespoon butter into bits and dot the tops evenly.
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Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until hot and lightly sizzling.
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Turn the oven to broil and slip the baking sheet under the broiler about 4 inches from the heat source.
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Broil for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the tops are nicely browned.
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Dont leave them in the oven any longer, or they will dry out.
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Transfer each dish to a plate and serve.
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23
Most Vietnamese and Chinese markets, and some supermarkets, offer two kinds of ground pork, a fattier one and a leaner one.
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You wont see fat percentages posted, but the costlier one is leaner.
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There may even be coarsely ground pork (think of a chili grind), which has a texture similar to hand-chopped pork.
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Or, you can buy a shoulder roast and have it ground on the spot.
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It will have a fat content of 15 to 20 percent, making it excellent for these recipes, and it freezes beautifully.
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For smaller quantities, use pork shoulder (blade) steaks and do the chopping yourself (page 69).
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Try these various options and decide which one you prefer.