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1
Pour the 3 1/2 quarts water into a 5- or 6-quart Dutch oven and bring to a rolling boil over high heat.
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2
Add the crab and cook, clean, and pick it as directed on page 322.
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3
Set the meat and the tomalley and fat aside.
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4
If you dont like the tomalley and fat, discard them along with the shell bits.
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5
Reserve 3 quarts (12 cups) of the cooking liquid for the broth.
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6
To rehydrate the dried shrimp, put them in a small saucepan with the 1 1/4 cups water, bring to a simmer over medium heat, and cook for 10 minutes, or until slightly soft.
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7
Drain the shrimp into a sieve placed over a bowl and let cool completely.
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8
Add the cooking liquid to the reserved crab cooking liquid.
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9
Put the cooled shrimp in a food processor and process to grind to a coarse texture.
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10
Add the crabmeat and tomalley and fat.
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11
Pulse 3 times to combine but not pulverize the crabmeat.
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12
Transfer to a bowl and mix in 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce, and the egg whites.
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13
Set aside.
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14
In a large, wide pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat.
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15
Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, or until fragrant and a bit soft.
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16
Add the tomatoes and their juices and the remaining 1 1/4 teaspoons salt and bring to a vigorous simmer.
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17
Cook, stirring frequently, for 10 to 12 minutes, or until most of the liquid has evaporated and the mixture is thick.
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18
Add the shrimp sauce, the remaining 1 tablespoon fish sauce, and the reserved cooking liquid.
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19
Bring to a boil over high heat, lower the heat to a gentle simmer, and cook for 30 minutes.
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20
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil, for reheating the noodles; ready the scallions and cilantro for assembling the bowls; and arrange the garnishes on a plate or put them in small dishes and put on the table.
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21
Keeping the broth at a gentle simmer, use a large spoon to slowly stir it in one direction, scraping the bottom of the pot.
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22
As you stir with one hand, use the other to pour in the egg mixture.
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23
Keep stirring, and as soon as the egg mixture floats to the top, remove the spoon.
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24
Let the broth cook undisturbed for 5 minutes.
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25
When small bubbles break the surface, the soup is done.
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26
The broth underneath will be golden and clear with some solids at the bottom.
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27
Lower the heat so the broth stays warm while you assemble the bowls.
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28
When the water has reached a boil, place a portion of the noodles on a vertical-handle strainer (or mesh sieve) and dunk the noodles in the boiling water.
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29
After 5 to 10 seconds, pull the strainer from the water, letting the water drain back into the pot.
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30
Empty the noodles into a bowl and repeat with the remaining portions, while proceeding to assemble each bowl.
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31
Use a slotted spoon to transfer an equal portion of the floater to each bowl, on top of the noodles.
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32
Bring the broth to a rolling boil, taste, and salt, if necessary.
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33
Ladle 2 cups broth into each bowl, distributing the hot liquid evenly.
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34
Top with the scallions and cilantro.
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35
Serve immediately with the garnishes.
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36
It is customary for diners to add some vegetables, torn herb leaves, and squeezes of fresh line.
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37
Anyone wanting a brinier bowl should mix in a dab of shrimp sauce, while heat seekers should add a little of the chile-garlic mix.
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38
To split and curl water spinach stems, use only the hollow portion of the stems, removing all leaves and tender stems (save those for a stir-fry, page 178).
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39
Soak the stems in water for 5 minutes to make them easier to split.
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40
A knife is traditionally used to split the stems, but a water spinach splitter (dao che rau muong, literally knife for splitting water spinach), available at Vietnamese markets, works much better.
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41
The thin metal rod attached to the round plastic top contains a set of sharp blades arranged like wheel spokes.
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42
Slide the splitter into the stem and then push the stem through the blades until about 4 inches of split stem protrudes.
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43
Grab the split portion and pull on it to drag the remaining stem portion through the blades.
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44
Deposit the shreds in a bowl of cold water and let soak for 15 minutes to curl.
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45
Drain before using.
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46
For information on banana blossoms, see page 52.
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47
Simply remove some of the bracts, stack them, and then slice them.
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48
Soak for 10 minutes in 1 tablespoon of distilled white vinegar and water to cover.
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49
Then massage and drain them.
