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1
Cut tofu into 1/4-inch slabs. Press firmly between paper towels to remove excess moisture, then cut into 1/4-inch dice. Set aside.
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2
Combine Shaoxing wine, soy sauce, vinegar, hoisin sauce, chili sauce (if using), cornstarch, and 1 tablespoon (15ml) water in a small bowl and mix with a fork until homogeneous. Set aside.
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3
Combine pine nuts and 1 tablespoon (15ml) oil in a wok and place over medium heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until nuts are well toasted, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.
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4
Add 1 tablespoon oil to wok and heat over high heat until lightly smoking. Add tofu and cook, stirring occasionally, until tofu is well browned all over, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to bowl with pine nuts.
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5
Add 1 tablespoon oil to wok and heat over high heat until lightly smoking. Add shiitakes and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned all over, about 3 minutes. Transfer to bowl with tofu and pine nuts.
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6
Heat remaining tablespoon oil in wok over high heat until lightly smoking. Add scallions, garlic, and ginger and cook, stirring and tossing constantly, until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Add jicama and celery and toss to combine. Return tofu, mushrooms, and pine nuts to wok and toss to combine. Stir sauce with a fork to reintegrate any cornstarch that may have settled to the bottom, then add to wok. Cook, tossing and stirring constantly, until all vegetables are evenly coated in sauce. Stir in cilantro (reserve a little for garnish) and season to taste with salt and white pepper. Transfer to a warm serving platter and sprinkle with reserved cilantro.
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7
Serve immediately. To eat, spread a little hoisin sauce on the bottom of a lettuce leaf and spoon the filling into the lettuce. Eat with your hands.