Winter Cabbage, Juniper, and Cream

Separate the leaves of the cabbage and shred them into finger-thick strips.

I find the easiest way to do this is to pile the leaves on top of one another, then roll them up and shred them with a large knife.

Bring a pan of water to a boil, salt it lightly, and add the cabbage.

Let it boil for barely a couple of minutes.

You want the leaves to be tender enough to eat but still bright green and perky.

Meanwhile, crush the peppercorns and juniper berries lightly with a pestle and mortar, or with a heavy object on a chopping board.

Drain the cabbage, return the empty pan to the heat, and melt the butter in it.

Toast the crushed spices in the butter for a minute or two until fragrant, then pour in the cream.

Let bubble for a minute or so, until it starts to thicken slightly, then season with a very little salt and add the drained greens.

Toss them in the spiced cream until lightly coated.

Serve immediately, while the sauce is still piping hot and creamy.