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1.
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Bring 3 quarts of water to a boil and set up an ice bath nearby.
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Plunge the calamari into the boiling water and cook for 30 seconds.
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Remove the calamari with a slotted spoon or strainer and immediately plunge it into the ice bath.
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Allow it to cool for 1 minute, then drain and set aside.
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Blanch the leeks in the same water for 8 to 9 minutes, until just tender.
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Refresh in the ice bath, then cut in half lengthwise.
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2.
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Preheat the grill or broiler.
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Brush the leek halves with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
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Grill or broil the leeks, cut side toward the heat, until charred, 8 to 10 minutes.
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Resist the temptation to move them more than once.
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3.
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In a 12- to 14-inch saute pan, heat 3 tablespoons of the oil over high heat until smoking.
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Season the fish fillets with salt and pepper and cook, skin side down, for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the flesh is crispy and moves easily without tearing.
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4.
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While the fish cooks, combine the wine, lemon juice, and squid ink in another saute pan and bring to a boil.
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Turn off the heat and whisk in the mustard, then the remaining 4 tablespoons of olive oil.
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Season with salt and pepper and add the calamari.
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Keep warm.
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5.
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Turn the fish over and add the leeks to the pan.
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Cook the fish on the other side for 2 to 3 minutes and heat the leeks through.
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Place two leeks in the center of each of four warmed plates.
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Place one fillet atop each bed of leeks, flesh side up.
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Drizzle each fillet with some of the squid vinaigrette and garnish with the tentacles and lemon zest.
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Serve immediately.
