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1
Dry the squid well with cloth or paper towels.
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2
Cut vertically through the group of tentacles if it is large; otherwise, leave whole.
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3
Cut the squid bodies into rectangles, diamonds, or squares, with no dimension greater than 1 inch.
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4
The pieces should be fairly uniform in size.
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5
Have everything else ready and at hand before you begin to cook.
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6
Put a large nonstick skillet over high heat; add the oil and, when it shimmers, add the garlic, chiles, and coriander.
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7
Cook, stirring almost constantly, for 15 seconds.
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8
Raise the heat to high, add the squid, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, just until it loses its raw look.
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9
Lower the heat to medium and stir in the sugar, nam pla, lime leaf if you have it, and basil.
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10
Cook, stirring, for another few seconds, just until the basil wilts.
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11
Taste, add salt or more chile or nam pla if necessary, and serve.
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12
Same technique, different ingredients: In step 3, stir in 1/4 cup water, 1 tablespoon go chu jang (page 591) or 1 tablespoon miso mixed with a pinch of cayenne, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds (page 596), and 1 teaspoon dark sesame oil.
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13
Instead of basil, garnish with minced scallion.
