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1
Tear the ancho chiles into flat pieces, then toast a few at a time on an ungreased griddle or skillet over medium heat: press flat with a metal spatula for a few seconds, until they crackle and change color slightly, then flip and press again.
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2
(If they give off more than the slightest wisp of smoke, they are burning and will add a bitter element to the sauce.)
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3
In a small bowl, cover the chiles with hot water and let rehydrate for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally to ensure even soaking.
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4
Drain and discard the water.
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5
Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a heavy, medium-size (4-quart) pot (preferably a Dutch oven) over medium.
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6
Add the onion and garlic cloves, and fry, stirring regularly, until well browned, about 10 minutes.
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7
Scrape into a blender jar.
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8
Set the pan aside.
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9
Roast the tomato on a baking sheet 4 inches below a very hot broiler until blackened, about 5 minutes, then flip it and roast the other side; cool, then peel, collecting all the juices with the tomato.
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10
Add the tomato to the blender, along with the peanuts, bread, chipotles, drained anchos, allspice and cinnamon.
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11
Add 1 1/2 cups of the broth and blend until smooth, stirring and scraping down the sides of the blender jar, and adding a little more liquid if needed to keep everything moving through the blades.
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12
Press the mixture through a medium-mesh strainer into a bowl.
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13
Heat 1 tablespoon of the remaining oil in the pot over medium-high.
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14
When hot enough to make a drop of the puree sizzle sharply, add it all at once.
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15
Stir as the nutty-smelling, ruddy-red amalgamation thickens and darkens for about 5 minutes, then stir in the remaining 2 cups broth, the wine, vinegar and bay leaves.
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16
Partially cover and let gently simmer over medium-low heat for roughly 45 minutes, stirring regularly for the flavors to harmonize.
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17
If necessary, thin the sauce with a little more broth to keep it the consistency of a cream soup.
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18
Taste and season with salt, usually about 1 1/2 teaspoons, and the sugar.
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19
Cover and keep warm.
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20
Thirty to 45 minutes before serving, light a gas grill or prepare a charcoal fire and let the coals burn until they are covered with gray ash and medium-hot.
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21
Position the grill grate about 8 inches above the coals and lightly oil.
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22
While the grill heats, lay the quail on a baking sheet.
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23
Tie the legs together with kitchen twine, then brush both sides with some of the remaining oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper.
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24
Lay the quail on the hottest portion of the grill, breast-side down.
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25
Cover the grill and cook about 8 minutes, checking once or twice to ensure that they are not browning too quickly.
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26
Flip the quail and move to a cooler portion of the grill (quail finished over a cooler fire always seems juicier).
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27
Cover and continue grilling until the leg meat will separate from the bone quite easily when you squeeze a leg between two fingers, 4 to 6 minutes more.
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28
Remove to a plate and keep warm in a low oven while you set up your plates.
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29
Ladle a generous 1/3 cup of the earthy-colored sauce onto each of 6 warm dinner plates.
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30
Set 2 quail over the sauce.
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31
Garnish with chopped peanuts and sprigs of parsley.
