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1
To make the filling, in a large bowl, whisk together the salt, pepper, fish sauce, and egg until blended.
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2
Add the wood ears, shiitakes, noodles, yellow onion, scallions, jicama, shrimp, crabmeat, and pork and stir to combine, breaking up the pork into small pieces as you mix.
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3
Set aside.
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4
(The filling may be made up to 1 day in advance, covered with plastic wrap, and refrigerated.)
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5
In a wide, shallow bowl or baking dish, combine the sugar and water and stir to dissolve the sugar.
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6
This sugar water helps the rolls to color and crisp.
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7
If there isnt enough liquid to allow the rice paper to be fully immersed, mix more.
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8
Place the bowl or dish at your work station, which should also include the rice paper rounds, filling, a platter for holding the finished rolls, and a spread-out dish towel on which to shape the rolls.
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9
(The dish towel absorbs excess water and typically makes the rice paper tackier and easier to roll smoothly.
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10
If you find that the rice paper sticks too much to the dish towel, switch to a cutting board.)
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11
To make each roll, slide a rice paper round into the sugar water.
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12
Let it sit for 5 seconds to moisten both sides well, then place it on the dish towel and let sit for another minute to soften.
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13
Repeat with another rice paper and set it next to the first one.
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14
(Once the first rice paper has softened, you can begin rolling it while the other one rests.)
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15
Center 2 heaping tablespoons of the filling on the lower third of the softened rice paper.
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16
Use your fingers to shape the filling into a solid 4-inch-long log about 1 inch in diameter.
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17
Lift the bottom edge over the filling, making sure it is smooth.
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18
To reinforce to the ends, which brown quickly, use the side of each little finger to crease the ends before folding in the sides.
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19
Roll from the bottom up to finish.
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20
The rice paper is self-sealing.
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21
Try to make sure the cylinder is free of air pockets, so the roll doesnt burst during frying.
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22
(Rolls that burst still taste good but they arent pretty.)
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23
Place the roll seam side down on the platter.
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24
Dip a new rice paper round and get to work on the one that is now ready.
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25
Work in this rhythm until all the filling is used.
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26
As the platter fills, dont stack the rolls or they may stick and tear.
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27
Another key to preventing the rolls from bursting during frying is to maintain a moderately low oil temperature.
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28
Given that, a 5-quart Dutch oven and a deep-frying thermometer are the best equipment ensemble for frying the rolls, as they make monitoring the oil easy.
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29
Put a wire rack on a baking sheet and place the baking sheet and a paper towellined plate (for blotting away excess oil) next to the stove.
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30
Put the platter of rolls on the other side of the stove.
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31
Pour oil to a depth of 1 1/2 inches into the Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat to 325F on a deep-frying thermometer.
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32
Start adding the rolls, placing them seam side down.
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33
Set the rolls as far apart from one another as possible to prevent them from sticking, and add as many as the pan can hold comfortably without crowding.
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34
When the oil reaches 350F, steady the temperature by lowering the heat to medium.
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35
Let the rolls fry for 5 to 10 minutes, or until crispy and golden.
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36
The frying time and color depth depend on the rice paper; some papers stay light while others darken.
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37
Bubbles will form in the rolls.
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38
Ignore small ones, but if a huge one prevents a roll from frying evenly, let the bubble set to a crisp, remove the roll from the oil, tap it against the cooling rack to burst and remove the bubble, and then return the roll to finish frying.
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39
When a roll is ready, use tongs to remove it from the oil.
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40
Put it on the towel-lined plate briefly to remove excess oil and then set it on the rack to cool.
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41
Add a new roll to the hot oil and continue frying until all are cooked.
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42
As needed, regulate the heat to maintain the temperature.
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43
When you are through, briefly refry any rolls that have softened during cooling.
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44
Use scissors to cut each roll into 3 or 4 pieces, and put them on 2 plates or platters.
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45
Serve with the vegetable garnish and sauce.
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46
To eat, wrap pieces in the garnishes and dip.
