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1
To make the stock: Combine the crabs, water, celery, carrot, onion, leek top, thyme, parsley, bay leaves, Old Bay, and peppercorns in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and cook at an active simmer for 45 minutes. Strain the stock and reserve (you can refrigerate overnight). When the crabs are cool enough to handle, crack them and pick the meat. Cover and refrigerate until needed. If the crabs have roe, reserve it separately, also covered in the refrigerator. Discard the other solids.
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2
To make the base: Combine 4 cups of the crab stock with the water and fish bouillon in a large saucepan. Bring to a simmer. Melt the butter in a separate saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour to make a roux and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Don't let the roux brown. Gradually whisk in the warmed stock, making sure you don't leave any lumps, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, whisking once in awhile, for 20 minutes.
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3
To finish the soup: While the base is simmering, bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. Add the celery, bring back to a boil, and blanch for 2 1/2 minutes. Drain, refresh the celery under cold running water, and drain again. Add the butter, sherry, brandy and roe to the base. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Pour in the cream and add the reserved crab meat, jumbo lump crab meat, and the celery. Bring back to a simmer and serve hot.
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4
Note: Crab base is available online. To make a quick crab stock, bring 4 cups of water to a simmer. Add HOW MUCH crab base and whisk to dissolve it. You'll need 1 1/2 cups of jumbo lump crab meat to finish the soup. You can order crab roe from charlestonseafood.com. but keep in mind that it's a seasonal product.
