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1.
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Set a heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, or medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, while preparing the meal and seasoning the fish steaks.
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Three to four minutes before searing the fish steaks, turn on the exhaust fan and increase the heat to high.
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2.
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Set steaks on a plate, drizzle with oil; turn to coat.
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Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
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3.
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A minute or so after the residual oils in the skillet send up wisps of smoke, put the fish steaks in the pan.
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Cook over high heat until the steaks develop a thick, rich brown crust, about 3 1/2 to 4 minutes.
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Turn the steaks and continue to cook over high heat until the other sides develop a thick, rich brown crust and the fish is medium-rare to medium, 3 1/2 to 4 minutes longer.
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(For medium-well-done fish, turn the heat to low and cook, turning once, for 1 to 2 minutes longer.)
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Remove to a plate and let stand 5 minutes.
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4.
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Serve with lemon wedges, or an uncooked relish or flavored butter.
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Or make a pan sauce by adding 1/2 cup liquid to the skillet; boil until the liquid is reduced to about 1/4 cup.
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Tilting the skillet so that the reduced liquid is at one side of the pan, whisk in butter or other enrichments until the sauce is smooth and glossy.
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Mash the horseradish and butter into a paste.
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Add the vinegar and season to taste with salt and pepper.
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Smear a tablespoon of flavored butter over each portion and serve immediately.
