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Note on chiles: This is one of the most versatile formulas to know, since you can go to practically any grocery store and find at least one variety of small hot dried chile.
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In a Mexican market (on either side of the border), the possibilities multiply quickly ?
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from the nuttiness of cascabel to the punch of arbol chiles, the peanutiness of piquin, and the smoky sweetness of red chipotles (morita).
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As a rough guide, 1/2 ounce dried chiles corresponds to 6 red chipotles (mortas), 4 tan chipotles, 16 arbols, 3 cascabels or 1/4 cup piquin.
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Toasting and roasting.
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Preheat a broiler.
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In an ungreased skillet over medium heat, toast the chiles, stirring for 1 minute, until they are very aromatic (some will have slightly darkened spots on them).
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Transfer to a bowl, cover with hot water and rehydrate for 30 minutes.
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In the same skillet, roast the garlic, turning regularly, until soft and blotchy-dark in places, about 15 minutes.
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Cool and slip off the papery skin.
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Roast the tomatillos on a baking sheet 4 inches below a very hot broiler until soft, even blackened in spots, about 5 minutes on each side.
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Cool, then transfer the contents of the baking sheet (including any juices) to a blender or a food processor.
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Finishing the salsa: Drain the chiles and add to the tomatillos along with the garlic.
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Puree, then scrape into a serving dish.
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Stir in enough water to give a spoonable consistency, usually about 1/4 cup.
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Season with salt, usually 1 teaspoon, and the optional sugar.
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Refrigerated, the salsa keeps for several days.
