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To make the fish stock, rinse and clean: 3 pounds fish bones and heads (gills removed), white-fleshed fish only.
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If necessary, chop the bones so they will fit in a large heavy pot.
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Prepare: 1 onion, peeled and sliced, 1 small carrot, peeled and sliced, 1 small fennel bulb, trimmed and sliced, 3 medium tomatoes, cored and coarsely chopped, 1 head of garlic, cut in half horizontally.
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Put a large heavy pot over medium-high heat and pour in: Olive oil, enough to cover the bottom of the pan.
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Add the fish bones and saute for 2 minutes and then add the prepared vegetables with: 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns, 1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds, 1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds, A few sprigs of fresh herbs (such as fennel tops, wild fennel, savory, thyme, or parsley), 1 bay leaf, A pinch of saffron threads.
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Continue to cook for a few more minutes, until the vegetables start to soften.
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Pour over: 2 cups dry white wine.
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Bring to a boil and cook for a couple of minutes, then add: 1 1/2 quarts water, Salt.
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to a simmer.
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Skim off the foam that rises to the surface.
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Cook at a simmer for 45 minutes and then strain.
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Meanwhile trim away any bones from: 2 pounds assorted fish fillets (rockfish, ling cod, halibut, or sea robin, or any combination).
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Add the bones to the simmering fish stock.
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Cut the fillets into 2-or 3-inch pieces and marinate in: Extra-virgin olive oil, just enough to coat the fish, 2 tablespoons chopped fennel tops, wild fennel, or parsley, 4 garlic cloves, crushed and coarsely chopped, Salt.
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15
Scrub and remove the beards from: 1 pound mussels.
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Prepare: Rouille (opposite).
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For the soup base, heat a heavy soup pot over medium heat and pour in: 3 tablespoons olive oil.
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When hot, add: 1 medium onion, diced fine.
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Cook for 5 minutes and add: 1 leek, white part only, cleaned, rinsed, and diced, 1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed and diced, A pinch of saffron threads.
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Cook, stirring now and then, until soft, about 7 minutes; do not brown.
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Add: Salt, 4 or 5 medium tomatoes (about 3/4 pound), peeled, seeded, and diced.
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Cook for another 3 or 4 minutes.
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Pour in the strained fish stock and bring to a boil.
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Turn down to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes.
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Taste for salt and adjust.
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Th is can be done ahead of time, and in fact, it tastes better if this soup base of stock and vegetables has a chance to sit for a while before you add the fish.
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Prepare the croutons.
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Brush: 8 to 10 slices country-style bread with Olive oil.
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Lay the oiled bread on a baking sheet and toast in a 375F oven for 10 minutes, or until golden brown.
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Rub the croutons with: 1 garlic clove, peeled.
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When ready to finish and serve the soup, bring the soup base to a simmer and add the fish.
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Cook for 3 minutes, then add the mussels.
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Cook at a simmer until the shellfish open their shells.
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Taste the soup for salt and adjust as necessary.
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Serve with the croutons and rouille to pass at the table.
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Add 3/4 pound shrimp, unpeeled or peeled, with the mussels.
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(If you peel the shrimp first, add the peels to the simmering stock.)
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Use small clams in combination with the mussels.