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1
Following the directions in Long-Grain Rice Basics (page 238), cook the rice so the grains are on the soft side, rather than dry or firm.
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2
You may have to use extra water.
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3
This is the one time when mushy rice is good.
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4
Wet a lint-free, nonterry dish towel, wring it out, and spread it out on a work surface.
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Fluff the hot rice and then place half of it on the center of the towel.
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Gather up the towel and start vigorously kneading the rice as if it were a ball of bread dough.
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When the rice is compact and malleable, 1 to 2 minutes later, open up the towel and shape the rice into a log 2 inches in diameter.
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Wrap the log in the dish towel and roll it back and forth to smooth the surface.
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Put the log on a plate and repeat with the remaining rice.
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Allow the logs to cool until they are dry to the touch, about 1 hour.
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Rotate the logs after 30 minutes, so the wetter underside dries out, too.
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To serve, use a knife to slice the logs into 1/4- to 1/2-inch-thick pieces, dipping the blade in cold water before each cut.
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13
When making rice logs in advance, loosely cover them with plastic wrap and keep at room temperature.
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14
They are best when eaten within 2 hours.
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15
To make sesame salt (muoi me), toast 3 tablespoons sesame seeds (page 332) and transfer to a mortar.
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Add 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt and crush with a pestle to a fine, sandy texture.
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Alternatively, use an electric mini-chopper and process for 12 to 15 seconds.