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Variation Preheat the oven to 400.
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Spread a 1-inch layer of salt in a small roasting pan.
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Prick the potatoes all over with a fork and arrange them on the salt in a single layer.
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Bake until fork-tender, about 11/2 hours.
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Remove them from the oven and slit them lengthwise to release their steam.
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Variation Line a large rimmed baking sheet with paper towels.
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As soon as the potatoes are cool enough to handle, scoop their flesh into a ricer or tamis and rice the potatoes onto the paper towels in a shallow layer.
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Let cool completely.
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Variation Working over a medium bowl, sift the all-purpose and cake flours with a large pinch of salt.
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Measure out 4 lightly packed cups of the riced potatoes (1 pound), and transfer the potatoes to a work surface.
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Sprinkle the sifted flour mixture over the potatoes and drizzle with the olive oil.
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Gently form the dough into a firm ball.
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13
Variation Test the gnocchi dough: Bring a small saucepan of salted water to a boil.
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Using your hands, form one 3/4-inch round (a single gnocco).
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Boil the gnocco until it floats to the surface, about 1 minute.
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Using a slotted spoon, transfer the gnocco to a plate and let cool.
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It should be light and tender but still hold together.
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If the gnocco breaks apart in the boiling water, the dough has too little flour; add more.
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If the gnocco is tough and chewy, the dough has too much flour; cut in a little more of the reserved riced potatoes.
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Variation Line a baking sheet with paper towels.
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Divide the dough into quarters.
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Working with one piece at a time, gently roll the dough into a long rope about 1/2 inch wide.
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Using a sharp knife, cut the rope into 1/2-inch pieces.
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Roll each piece against the tines of a fork to make light ridges.
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Transfer the gnocchi to the baking sheet.
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Repeat with the remaining dough.
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27
Let the gnocchi stand at room temperature for 1 hour to dry.
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28
Variation Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
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29
Fill a large bowl with ice water.
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Add half of the gnocchi at a time and boil over high heat until they rise to the surface, then cook for 15 seconds longer.
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31
Using a wire skimmer, transfer the gnocchi to the bowl of ice water.
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Drain on paper towels and pat dry.
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Toss with oil and refrigerate for up to 3 hours or freeze the gnocchi on baking sheets in a single layer.
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34
Transfer them to an airtight container or resealable plastic bags and freeze for up to six weeks.
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35
To serve, saute them in butter until heated through before proceeding.
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36
Variation For Chestnut Gnocchi, substitute 1/3 cup chestnut flour for the cake flour before forming the gnocchi dough.
