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1
Pat pork chops dry with a paper towel. Combine salt and sugar in a small bowl. Season pork chops generously on all sides with salt/sugar mixture (you may have some seasoning mixture left over; reserve for another use or discard). Transfer to a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet. If dry-brining chops overnight, refrigerate, uncovered, at least 8 hours and up to 24; otherwise proceed immediately to Step 2.
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2
When ready to cook chops, preheat oven to 250u00b0F. Season chops with pepper. Place baking sheet with pork chops in oven and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the chops registers 100 to 110u00b0F for medium-rare, about 30 minutes, or 110 to 120u00b0F for medium, about 35 minutes. To prevent overcooking, start checking temperature 5 to 10 minutes before suggested time. Remove from oven.
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3
While pork cooks, combine wine and stock in a bowl or measuring cup and sprinkle gelatin all over, if using. Set aside.
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4
Heat oil in a large stainless steel or cast iron skillet over high heat until lightly smoking. Place pork chops in skillet and cook, turning occasionally, until browned and an instant-read thermometer registers 120 to 130u00b0F for medium-rare or 130 to 140u00b0F for medium, about 3 minutes. Stack pork chops with tongs, hold them on their sides, and sear the fat caps on the edges until crisp, about 1 minute. Remove pan from heat, transfer chops to a clean rack set in a rimmed baking sheet, tent with foil, and let rest while making pan sauce.
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5
Pour off excess fat from skillet and return to medium-high heat. Add 1 tablespoon butter and melt. Add leeks and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add wine and stock, bring to a boil, and cook, stirring occasionally, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Continue cooking until sauce is reduced by about two-thirds, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons butter and cook at a hard boil until emulsified, about 30 seconds. Stir in lemon zest and half of parsley, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
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6
Transfer pork chops to plates, spooning sauce all over (if pan sauce took too long to make and pork chops have cooled significantly, return to oven for a few minutes to reheat, being careful not to let them get above the maximum temperature reached in step 4). Garnish with parsley and serve.
