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1
Lay chiles on their sides on racks of gas burners and turn flames on moderately high.
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2
(Or arrange chiles on rack of a broiler pan about 2 inches from heat.)
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3
Roast chiles, turning with tongs, until skins are blackened, 5 to 8 minutes.
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4
Transfer to a bowl, then cover and let steam 10 minutes.
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5
Peel chiles and discard seeds, ribs, and stems, then coarsely chop.
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6
Preheat oven to 325F.
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7
Cook chiles, onion, garlic, cumin, salt, and oregano in 1 1/4 sticks butter in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until onion is slightly softened, about 5 minutes.
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8
Add cream and simmer, stirring, 1 minute.
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9
Transfer mixture to a large bowl and toss with corn bread crumbs.
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10
Toast pumpkin seeds in cleaned skillet over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until puffed, 5 to 8 minutes (seeds will pop as they puff).
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11
Remove from heat and stir in remaining 1/2 tablespoon butter and salt to taste.
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12
Add to corn bread mixture with cilantro and drizzle with broth, tossing to combine.
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13
(Use 1 1/2 cups broth if you like a moist stuffing, 1 cup if you prefer it drier.)
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14
Transfer stuffing to a buttered 3-quart shallow baking dish.
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15
Cover with foil and bake in middle of oven 30 minutes, then uncover and bake until top is crisp and stuffing is heated through, about 30 minutes more.
