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1
Rinse the chicken and pat dry with paper towels.
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2
Cut off the wing tips and freeze, along with the neck (if it is included), for making stock, or discard them.
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3
Select a pot that accommodates the chicken snugly with about 1 inch clearance between the top of the breast and the rim of the pot.
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4
Fill it half full with water and add the ginger, onion, and salt.
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5
Bring to a rolling boil over high heat and add the chicken.
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6
When the pot returns to a boil, lower the heat to a gentle simmer.
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7
Bubbles should dance softly on the surface.
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8
Base the cooking time on the chickens weight, poaching for 10 minutes per pound (a 3 1/2-pound bird takes 35 minutes).
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9
Use tongs to rotate the chicken halfway through to ensure even cooking.
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10
Near the end of the cooking time, select a bowl large enough to hold the chicken, fill it three-fourths full with ice water, and set it near the stove.
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11
When the chicken is done, use tongs to remove it from the pot and then plunge it into the ice water.
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12
Reserve the broth in the pot.
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13
Turn the chicken several times to expose it evenly to the ice water, then remove it from the bowl, draining the cavity well, and place it on a plate.
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14
Let it cool completely before slicing.
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15
The chicken may be prepared a day in advance; once it has cooled, cover it with plastic wrap and refrigerate, then bring to room temperature before slicing.
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16
Add the fish sauce to the broth, bring to a boil over high heat, and boil until reduced by one-fourth, or until the flavor is concentrated enough for your taste.
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17
Turn off the heat, cover, and set aside while the chicken cools.
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18
To serve, have ready 1 large serving plate or 2 smaller ones.
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19
Use a sharp knife to detach each wing at the shoulder joint.
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20
Separate the 2 sections of each wing, then chop them into smaller pieces with a heavy cleaver (or leave them whole).
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21
Arrange on the serving plate(s).
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22
Remove the breasts and the leg and thigh quarters from the chicken.
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23
Discard the back or save it for making stock.
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24
Cut the meat with skin attached off the bone and slice it into bite-sized pieces.
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25
Add the pieces, skin side up, to the serving plate(s), arranging them in an attractive pattern.
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26
(Diners may remove the skin while eating.)
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27
Scatter the lime leaves over the top.
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28
If you like, skim the fat from the broth.
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29
Bring the broth almost to boil.
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30
Taste and add extra salt, if necessary.
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31
Strain the broth into a large soup bowl and sprinkle with pepper.
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32
Serve immediately with the chicken and dipping sauce.
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33
If citrus leaves are unavailable, garnish the chicken generously with chopped Vietnamese coriander (rau ram).
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34
Or, dont top the chicken with anything and serve it with Ginger-Lime Dipping Sauce (page 309); include sliced Thai or serrano chiles on the side so diners can add some heat to the sauce.
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35
For a more substantial soup accompaniment, add small cubes of carrot or summer squash to the broth when reheating it for serving.
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36
When shopping for high-quality chickens, you are typically faced with a wide range of confusing claims, including free-range, organic, naturally raised, kosher, and hormone and antibiotic free.
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37
And even birds with the most promising labeling are sometimes disappointing when you eat them.
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38
Some producers breed chickens to meet consumer desires for large breasts and low fat, while others raise birds with a high ratio of meat to bone.
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39
Even processing methods may affect the flavor.
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40
In other words, it is difficult to know how good a chicken is until you taste it.
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41
The best way to sort out what birds are best where you live is to try all the types available and let your taste buds guide you.
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42
Perhaps you will prefer the chewy, flavorful meat of a slightly older chicken, or you will like a bird with a little more fat.
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43
Also, dont settle for what is in the meats section of your supermarket.
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44
Mine health-food stores, gourmet markets, and ethnic grocers, too.
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45
Talk to butchers, farmers, and chefs.
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46
If locally raised eggs are sold in your area, ask the vendor to help you find good chickens.
