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1
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat; do not brown.
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2
Remove from the heat and let stand until the solids settle to the bottom of the pan.
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3
Skim the foam from the top and spoon the clear liquid (the clarified butter) into a measuring cup; there should be 1/2 cup.
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4
Discard the solids on the bottom of the pan.
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5
Heat 8 cups water to a boil in a large saucepan.
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6
Add the rice, salt, cinnamon stick, cloves, peppercorns, and cardamom; cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is almost tender, 10 to 12 minutes.
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7
Drain immediately; let stand in the sieve until ready to use.
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8
(Leave the spices and peppercorns in the rice.)
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9
Preheat the oven to 350F.
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10
Add 2 tablespoons of the clarified butter to a 10-inch heavy ovenproof skillet or wide saucepan, preferably nonstick.
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11
Add the onions; cook, stirring, until golden.
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12
Add the saffron threads; cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
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13
Spread the onions evenly over the bottom of the pan.
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14
Spoon the rice on top.
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15
Drizzle with the remaining clarified butter; smooth the top and press down with a spatula.
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16
Cover with a double thickness of foil, pressing down on the foil to compact the rice.
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17
Bake until the bottom is crisp and golden, 55 to 60 minutes.
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18
Let stand, covered, for 10 minutes.
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19
Uncover the pan, place a large platter over it, and carefully invert the rice onto the platter.