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1
Preheat oven to 400F.
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2
Scrape vanilla seeds from pod into a small bowl and add sugar.
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3
Rub sugar and seeds together to unclump seeds.
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4
Into a bowl sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and 1 tablespoon vanilla sugar.
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5
In a well-seasoned 10-inch cast-iron skillet melt butter over moderately low heat and remove from heat.
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6
In a bowl whisk together buttermilk, eggs, and 1 tablespoon melted butter, leaving remaining butter in skillet, and whisk into flour mixture until just combined.
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7
Let batter stand 15 minutes.
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8
Peel and core pears and cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick wedges.
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9
Add pears to remaining vanilla sugar with lemon juice, tossing to coat.
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10
Arrange peats decoratively in butter remaining in skillet.
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11
Sprinkle any remaining sugar mixture over peats and cook over moderate heat until barely tender and sugar begins to caramelize, about 8 minutes.
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12
Pour batter evenly over peats and bake in middle of oven 15 minutes.
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13
Reduce temperature to 350F.
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14
and bake 15 minutes more, or until top is golden and center is firm to the touch.
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15
Immediately run a thin knife around edge of skillet.
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16
Invert o plate over skillet and invert cake onto plate (keeping plate and skillet firmly pressed together).
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17
Carefully lift skillet off cake and replace any fruit that is stuck to bottom of skillet.
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18
Serve pancake with syrup.
