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1
Put the oil in a wide deep skillet or flameproof casserole, preferably nonstick, with a lid and place over medium-high heat.
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2
Wait a couple of minutes and, when the oil is hot, add the veal shanks and brown them well, rotating and turning the pieces as necessary, 15 minutes or more.
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3
Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper as it cooks.
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4
Transfer the veal shanks to a plate.
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5
Turn off the heat for a minute, then turn it to medium.
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6
Add the anchovies if youre using them and cook, stirring occasionally, until they break up, a minute or two.
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7
Add the onion, carrot, celery, 1 tablespoon of the garlic, the bay leaves, and thyme and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften, about 10 minutes.
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8
Add the wine, bring to a boil, and turn the heat to low.
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9
Return the veal shanks to the pan and cover the skillet.
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10
Five minutes later, check to see that the mixture is simmeringjust a few bubbles appearing at onceand adjust the heat accordingly.
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11
Cook until the meat is very tender and pulling away from the bone, at least 90 minutes and probably more; turn the veal every half hour or so.
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12
(When the meat is tender, you may turn off the heat and refrigerate the dish for up to 24 hours; reheat gently before proceeding.)
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13
If the sauce is thin, transfer the meat to a warm platter and turn the heat to high; boil the sauce until it becomes thick and glossy, about 5 minutes.
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14
Mix together the remaining teaspoon of garlic, the lemon zest, and the parsley to make the gremolata.
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15
Stir the gremolata into the sauce and turn off the heat.
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16
Serve the meat with the sauce spooned over it.
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17
Brown the meat as in step 1, then simmer it in Fast, Fresh Tomato Sauce (page 606), made with a tablespoon of garlic and a teaspoon of fresh marjoram.
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18
Once the meat is tender, finish, if you like, by covering with about 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs (page 580) and baking in a 375F oven for about 15 minutes.
