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1. Drain the soaked chickpeas, then cover with 8 cups water in a large pot. Add the onion stuck with cloves and the bay leaf, bring to a boil, then gently simmer for 40 to 60 minutes, until tender. Season with salt, leaving the chickpeas in their broth. Chickpeas may be cooked in advance. (If using canned chickpeas, rinse and add salt to taste.)
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2. While chickpeas cook, make the spice mixture and cook chicken: In a dry skillet over medium heat, toast the coriander, cumin and caraway seeds until fragrant. Grind to a coarse powder with a mortar or in a spice mill. Stir in the cayenne.
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3. Rinse the chicken legs and pat dry. Season generously on all sides with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the spice mixture and rub into the meat. (This may be done ahead, even the night before.)
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4. In a heavy-bottomed enameled soup pot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add chicken legs and brown gently until golden, about 4 minutes a side. Remove legs and set aside. In the same pot, add diced onions and a little salt. Let onions soften and color for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, and scraping up any brown bits. Add cinnamon stick and garlic and cook for a minute more.
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5. When chickpeas are cooked, drain, reserving broth. Return the chicken to the pot and pour in 4 cups of chickpea broth (or water). Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Cook, covered, for 25 minutes.
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6. Add chickpeas, carrots and turnips and cook, covered, for 15 minutes more. Let rest 5 minutes and skim excess fat. Serve with broth, spicy green sauce and buttered couscous or rice, if desired.
