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1
In a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch the chicken livers until just barely cooked, 1 to 2 minutes.
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2
Transfer to a plate and let cool slightly, then finely chop them.
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3
Meanwhile, in a small skillet, toast the fennel, cumin and crushed red pepper over moderate heat until fragrant, about 1 minute.
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4
Transfer to a spice grinder and let cool, then grind into a powder.
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5
In a medium bowl, combine the lamb with the chopped livers, ground spices, fish sauce, shallot, celery, ginger, oyster sauce, Cognac, cheese and sugar.
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6
Knead the filling until well mixed and slightly sticky.
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7
Spread 6 wonton wrappers on a work surface and brush the edges with water.
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8
Spoon 1 teaspoon of the lamb filling in the center of each wrapper and fold in half to make triangles; press the edges firmly to seal, pressing out any air pockets.
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9
With the longest side of the triangles facing you, fold up the two opposite corners and pinch them together to seal.
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10
Transfer the dumplings to a wax paperlined baking sheet and cover with a damp paper towel.
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11
Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling.
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12
Bring a large saucepan of water just to a simmer and add a generous pinch of salt.
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13
In batches, cook the dumplings until the wrappers are translucent and the filling is just cooked through, about 4 minutes.
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14
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the dumplings to paper towels to drain briefly, then arrange on plates.
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15
Top the dumplings with the salmon roe and dollop some of the yogurt on the plate.
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16
Garnish with dill sprigs, celery leaves and a drizzle of chile oil and serve right away.
