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1
Filet the fish (or have the fishmonger do it), leaving the skin on.
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2
If you want a completely boneless filet, use tweezers or clean needle-nose pliers to remove the dozen or so pin bones running down the middle of the filet near the head end.
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3
Place the filets skin side down in a glass or stainless steel baking pan or other deep dish.
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4
Combine the salt and sugar and sprinkle a generous layer all over the fish, more thickly on the thickest part of the meat, a little less on the tail and edges.
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5
Use about a tablespoon in all for a 2-pound fish, the full amount for a 3-pounder.
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6
Cover and refrigerate 8 hours to overnight.
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7
Drain off any juices that have collected in the pan.
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8
Add cold water to cover, let stand 15 minutes, drain, and repeat.
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9
Drain well and pat dry with paper towels.
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10
For a smoother surface, lay the filets on a wire rack in a cool, breezy place for 15 minutes to dry.
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11
Build a small charcoal fire (10 to 12 briquets) at one edge of a covered grill and let it burn down until covered with gray ash.
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12
Meanwhile, soak 1/2 cup of the smoking chips in water.
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13
Cover the grill and adjust the vents on the top and bottom to maintain a temperature of about 200 degrees F.
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14
Drain the chips and add them to the coals; replace the grill with one handle nearest the fire, to facilitate adding smoking chips.
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15
Lay the filets on the opposite side from the fire, with the thickest parts nearest the heat.
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16
Cover and cook until the fish is opaque, 30 to 40 minutes.
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17
Add some dry smoking chips to the fire every 15 minutes or so to maintain smoke and heat.
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18
Serve hot or cold.
