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1
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 325 degrees F. Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and bake until toasted, 12 to 15 minutes; let cool completely.
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2
Combine 1 cup each hazelnuts and sugar and the potato starch in a blender or food processor and pulse until very finely ground.
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3
Transfer to a large bowl.
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4
Reduce the oven temperature to 275 degrees F. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.
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5
Using a bowl as a guide, draw three 7-inch circles on the parchment with a pencil (2 circles on 1 piece and 1 circle on the other); flip the parchment so the markings face down.
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6
Put the egg whites, 1/2 cup sugar and the salt in a large heatproof bowl.
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7
Set over a saucepan of simmering water (do not let the bowl touch the water) and whisk until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is warm, 2 to 5 minutes.
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8
Remove the bowl from the saucepan and beat with a mixer on medium-high speed until stiff and shiny but not dry, about 2 minutes.
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9
Fold the milk and one-quarter of the egg white mixture into the nut mixture with a rubber spatula until smooth, then fold in the remaining egg whites until just combined.
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10
Divide the batter among the 3 circles on the parchment and spread evenly with an offset spatula to fill the circles.
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11
Bake 1 hour, 30 minutes, then switch the position of the pans and continue baking until firm, dry and golden, 1 to 2 more hours.
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12
(The layers are done when they easily peel off the parchment.)
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13
Let cool slightly on the baking sheets; peel off the parchment and transfer to a rack to cool completely.
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14
Meanwhile, make the ganache: Put 1 cup cream in a microwave-safe bowl; microwave until very hot, about 2 minutes.
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15
Whisk in the chocolate and espresso powder until smooth.
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16
Let cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until cold, thick and spreadable, at least 30 minutes.
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17
Make the whipped cream: Combine the remaining 4 cups cream and 1/3 cup sugar in a large bowl and beat with a mixer on medium speed until it barely holds soft peaks, 1 to 2 minutes.
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18
Finish beating the cream by hand with a whisk until soft peaks form; do not overbeat.
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19
Put 2 meringue layers on a baking sheet; spread half of the ganache on each, to the edge.
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20
Refrigerate until set, 15 minutes.
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21
(If the ganache is too firm to spread, microwave in 20-second intervals to soften.)
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22
Place one of the ganache-topped meringues on a platter.
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23
Spread with 1 cup whipped cream.
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24
Stack the other ganache-topped meringue on top; spread with another layer of whipped cream.
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25
Top with the last meringue, then cover the top and side of the cake with the remaining whipped cream.
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26
Chop the remaining 1/3 cup hazelnuts and sprinkle on top of the cake along with the shaved chocolate.
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27
Refrigerate at least 6 hours or overnight before serving.
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28
Photograph by Con Poulos
