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1
In a heavy skillet (preferably cast-iron) cook oil and flour over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with a flat-edged metal or wooden spatula, until roux is the dark reddish-brown color of chestnut shells, about 45 minutes.
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2
(Alternatively, make Microwave Brown Roux and transfer to skillet.)
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3
Roux may be made 1 week ahead, cooled completely, and chilled, covered, in a glass or stainless-steel bowl.
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4
Reheat roux in skillet over moderately low heat, stirring, before proceeding.
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5
Stir in onions, bell pepper, and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are softened.
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6
In a 10- to 12-quart heavy kettle bring 4 quarts water to a boil and add carrot tops and assorted greens.
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7
Simmer greens, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 15 minutes.
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8
Transfer greens with tongs to a large shallow baking dish, letting excess cooking liquid drip into kettle and reserving all cooking liquid.
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9
Cool greens until they can be handles and chop coarse.
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10
Stir beans and remaining 3 quarts water into reserved cooking liquid and simmer beans, covered partially, until tender, about 1 hour.
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11
(Older beans may take longer to cook.)
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12
Add roux mixture by large spoonfuls, stirring well after each addition, and stir in greens, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste.
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13
Simmer gumbo, partially covered, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes.
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14
Gumbo may be made 2 days ahead, cooled completely, uncovered, and chilled, covered.
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15
Serve gumbo ladled over rice in large soup plates.
