Grilled Mahimahi with Pineapple Sambal

Cook garlic and shallots in 2 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add chiles and pineapple, then saute over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until pineapple is softened, 4 to 5 minutes.

Add fish sauce, sugar, and salt and saute sambal, stirring, 30 seconds.

Cool to room temperature, then stir in cilantro.

While sambal is cooling, prepare grill for cooking.

If using a charcoal grill, open vents on bottom of grill, then light charcoal.

Charcoal fire is medium-hot when you can hold your hand 5 inches above rack for 3 to 4 seconds.

If using a gas grill, preheat burners on high, covered, 10 minutes, then reduce heat to moderate.

Brush fish all over with remaining tablespoon oil, then season with salt.

Grill, skin sides down, on lightly oiled grill rack, covered only if using gas grill, until skin is crisp, 4 to 5 minutes.

Turn fish over and grill until just cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes more.

Serve fish with sambal.