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1
To make the dressing, in a small bowl, stir together the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, garlic, and chiles until the sugar dissolves.
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2
Set aside to develop the flavors.
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3
Peel the papaya with a vegetable peeler and then cut off the stem.
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4
Halve the papaya lengthwise and use a spoon to scoop out and discard the seeds.
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5
Cut each half lengthwise into quarters, and then use a knife to remove the thin white layer lining the cavity.
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6
Using a Japanese Benriner slicer (page 22) or a food processor fitted with the largest shredder blade, shred the papaya pieces.
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7
Aim for thin strands about 1/16 inch thick, no more than 3/16 inch wide, and 2 1/2 to 3 inches long (about the size of the shredded mozzarella you put on a pizza.)
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8
Put the shredded papaya in a colander, add the sugar and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the salt, and use both hands to massage the sugar and salt vigorously into the papaya.
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9
After a few minutes, the papaya will be a little slimy and limp yet still firm.
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10
At that point, rinse it under lots of cold running water to remove the salt and sugar.
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11
Working in batches, wring out excess moisture from the papaya in a nonterry dish towel: position a mound of the papaya in the center, roll it up in the towel, and then twist the ends in opposite directions to force out the liquid.
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12
Do this 3 or 4 times.
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13
You want to extract enough water from the papaya yet not completely crush it.
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14
Transfer the papaya to a large bowl and fluff it up to release it from its cramped state.
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15
Fill a small saucepan half full with water, add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and bring to a rolling boil over high heat.
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16
Add the shrimp, remove from the heat, and let stand for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the shrimp have curled nicely and are pinkish orange.
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17
Lift them out with a slotted spoon and set aside to cool, leaving the water in the pan.
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18
When the shrimp are cool enough to handle, shred them with your fingers into 1/4-inch pieces.
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19
Let the shrimp pieces continue to cool to room temperature and then add them to the bowl containing the papaya.
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20
While the shrimp are cooling, trim any excess fat from the pork chop.
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21
Return the water in the pan to a rolling boil and drop in the pork.
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22
When the water starts bubbling at the edges of the pan, remove the pan from the heat and cover tightly.
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23
Let stand for 20 minutes.
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24
Th e pork should be firm yet still yield a bit to the touch.
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25
Remove the pork from the pan.
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26
Reserve the light stock for another use or discard.
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27
When the pork is cool enough to handle, cut it into matchsticks.
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28
Let the pork continue to cool to room temperature and then add it to the shrimp and papaya.
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29
Just before serving, add the Vietnamese coriander to the salad and toss to distribute evenly.
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30
Pour on the dressing and toss again.
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31
(If you dont want to bite into a piece of chile unexpectedly, strain the dressing over the salad.)
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32
Taste and adjust the flavors to your liking, balancing the sour, sweet, salty, and spicy.
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33
Transfer to a serving plate, leaving any unabsorbed dressing behind, and serve.
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34
You may ready the papaya, shrimp, and pork a day in advance.
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35
Keep them in separate covered containers in the refrigerator, and return them to room temperature before tossing the salad.
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36
The dressing may be prepared several hours in advance.
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37
When I am including this salad in a meal that contains a pork-based dish, I leave out the shredded pork and add more shrimp (use about 3/4 pound total).
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38
If papaya isnt available or if you would like a slightly more assertive flavor, use daikon instead.
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39
Select young daikons (which have a milder taste) no more than 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
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40
To make another Vietnamese favorite, substitute sweet-and-spicy Asian beef jerky for the shrimp and pork.
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41
Purchase the thin, dark red sheets of jerky, packed in plastic wrap or in boxes, at a Chinese or Vietnamese market.
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42
Using scissors, cut about 3 ounces of the jerky into short strips that match the papaya strips; you will have about 3/4 cup.
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43
Combine the papaya, jerky, and 1/4 cup shredded fresh Thai basil leaves.
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44
Toss the mixture with the same dressing as for the pork and shrimp version, but use a little less, as you will have a slightly smaller amount of salad.
