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1
Soak the rice in a large bowl of water overnight.
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2
In a large pot, combine the kombu with all the dried mushrooms and 3 quarts of water; cover and let stand overnight.
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3
Bring the pot of kombu and mushrooms to a simmer over moderately high heat.
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4
Immediately remove the kombu and discard.
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5
Simmer the stock until reduced to 4 cups, about 1 hour.
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6
Strain the stock and discard the mushrooms (or reserve them for another use).
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7
Season lightly with salt.
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8
Meanwhile, drain the rice and shake out the water.
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9
Let the rice air dry for 30 minutes, shaking it in the strainer occasionally.
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10
Preheat the oven to 450.
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11
On a rimmed baking sheet, toss all the fresh mushrooms with the 3 tablespoons of melted butter and the soy sauce.
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12
Roast for about 20 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the mushrooms are tender and browned in spots.
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13
Let cool slightly, then coarsely chop the mushrooms.
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14
Line a large bamboo steamer with cheesecloth.
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15
Spread the rice over the cheesecloth in a 1-inch-thick layer.
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16
In a small bowl, combine 1/4 cup of the sake with 1/2 teaspoon of salt.
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17
Sprinkle the mixture over the rice.
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18
Set the steamer over a pot of boiling water and steam the rice over high heat until the grains are al dente and translucent, 8 minutes.
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19
Let cool slightly, then break up any clumps.
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20
In a large, deep skillet, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter.
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21
Add the onion and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes.
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22
Add the chopped mushrooms and cook for 2 minutes, until sizzling.
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23
Stir in the steamed rice.
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24
Add the remaining 1/4 cup of sake, season with salt and pepper and cook until the sake is absorbed, about 1 minute.
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25
Add 1/2 cup of the mushroom stock and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until absorbed.
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26
Add another 1/2 cup of the stock and cook, stirring, until the rice is tender but not mushy, about 10 minutes; you will have stock left over for another use.
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27
Stir in the chives and serve right away.