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1
In a 3- or 4-quart saucepan, combine the water, fish, half of the sliced onion, and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and bring almost to a boil over medium-high heat.
-
2
Lower the heat to a simmer and use a ladle to skim and discard any scum that rises to the top.
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3
Let simmer for 10 minutes, or until the flesh of the fish is opaque.
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4
Transfer the body sections to a plate, but leave the head in the broth.
-
5
Let the broth simmer for another 10 minutes.
-
6
Meanwhile, let the body sections cool for a few minutes, then remove the meat and discard the skin and bones.
-
7
A fork and a soupspoon are handy for this task.
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8
It is okay if the flesh does not come off in large pieces.
-
9
When the broth has finished simmering, remove from the heat and pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean saucepan.
-
10
Discard the solids.
-
11
Add 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce and cover and set aside if not serving right away.
-
12
In a skillet, heat the oil over medium heat.
-
13
Add the remaining onion and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for about 4 minutes, or until fragrant and soft.
-
14
Add the fish and heat for about 1 minute, or until heated through, gently breaking it up into 1-inch pieces as it heats.
-
15
Add the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons fish sauce and the 1/8 teaspoon pepper and cook for 1 to 2 minutes to allow the fish to absorb the flavors.
-
16
If you are not serving the soup right away, turn off the heat and cover.
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17
Just before serving, return the broth to a simmer.
-
18
Add the mustard greens and cook for about 1 minute, or until they have wilted and turned deep green.
-
19
Add the ginger and the fish and stir gently to distribute the fish evenly.
-
20
Taste and add extra salt or fish sauce, if necessary.
-
21
When the soup is at a simmer, turn off the heat and ladle into a serving bowl.
-
22
Sprinkle with black pepper and serve immediately.
-
23
The soups in this chapter, as well as many other recipes in this book, include gently cooking onions until they are fragrant and soft.
-
24
This unhurried step is called phi hanh and takes about four minutes to complete over medium heat.
-
25
The purpose is to coax the sugars from the onions without browning them.
-
26
You know the onions are ready when you stick your nose over the pan and the harshness of onion has been transformed into a sweet aroma.
-
27
The onions will have lost their opacity and turned translucent, and they will have lost all their crispness and become limp.
-
28
Note that phi hanh shouldnt be confused with the crispy fried shallots called hanh phi.
-
29
Th ere are two schools of canh making: the drop-into-boiling-water school and the saute-first-then-simmer school.
-
30
Cooks who follow the former practice argue that their method produces a pristine, clear broth.
-
31
I prefer to extract extra flavor from some of the ingredients, such as onion, by sauteing them first and then adding the seasonings and water.
-
32
A brief simmer follows and the soup is done.
-
33
The broth is not quite as clear as with the drop-into-boiling water method, but the flavors are stronger.
