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1
In a small saucepan, cover the annatto seeds with water, bring to a boil and simmer over moderate heat for 3 minutes.
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2
Remove from the heat and let stand for 2 hours.
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3
Drain the seeds and pat dry with paper towels.
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4
Transfer to a spice grinder and grind to a paste.
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5
Preheat the oven to 500.
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6
Put the 6 whole garlic cloves in a pie plate and roast on the top rack of the oven for about 10 minutes, or until blackened on top.
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7
In a food processor, puree the roasted garlic with the halved garlic cloves and the onion.
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8
Add the annatto paste, oregano, pepper, grapefruit and orange juices and oil and process until blended.
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9
Rub the spareribs with 2 tablespoons of kosher salt.
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10
Set 1 of the racks in a large roasting pan and coat with one-third of the annatto marinade.
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11
Repeat with the remaining ribs and marinade, stacking the racks on top of each other.
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12
Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
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13
Preheat the oven to 350.
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14
Line each of 3 large rimmed baking sheets with a banana leaf.
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15
Set a rack of ribs on each leaf, meaty side up.
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16
Arrange 6 bay leaves and one-third of the red onion slices on each rack and cover with a second banana leaf.
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17
Cover each pan tightly with foil and bake for about 2 1/2 hours, or until the ribs are very tender; shift the pans halfway through cooking.
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18
Remove the spareribs from the oven and let cool, covered, for 15 minutes.
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19
Meanwhile, wrap the tortillas in foil and warm in the oven for about 10 minutes.
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20
Preheat the broiler.
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21
Uncover the ribs and discard the banana leaves, onions and bay leaves.
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22
Broil the ribs, 1 rack at a time, 8 inches from the heat, for about 4 minutes, until crispy; baste occasionally with the pan juices.
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23
Cut the racks into ribs and serve with the warm tortillas and bowls of Pickled Red Onions and Yucatan Table Sauce.