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1
To make the brine, bring 1 quart water to a boil in a heavy stockpot; add sugar and salt and dissolve. Add lemon zest and thyme. Chill, then add buttermilk. Cut chicken into two breasts, two legs, and two thighs; clip wings from breasts. Place parts in a large pot, pour in brine, and refrigerate 4 hours.
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2
Combine flour and cornstarch in a shallow pan, and mix well. Remove chicken from brine, press skin flat, and place in flour mixture. Coat each piece of chicken well and let sit in dredge in the refrigerator for a minimum of 2 hours or, preferably, overnight.
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3
Steam chicken gently in a covered bamboo or metal basket steamer lined with Napa cabbage or lettuce (to prevent sticking) until chicken reaches 158 degrees, about 15 to 20 minutes. Place steamer in the refrigerator and chill until a Band-Aid-like shell forms on the skin, about an hour. Once the shell is cool to the touch, remove chicken to room temperature until ready to fry, no longer than 2 hours.
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4
In a heavy skillet, heat 2 inches of oil to 350 degrees; then fry chicken until dark golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer pieces to a paper towel-lined plate, season with salt and pepper, and serve.
