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1
To make the sauce: Pour the olive oil into the big pan, set it over medium heat, and scatter in the onion.
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2
Cook, stirring, for 3 or 4 minutes, until it begins to soften.
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3
Toss in the potato cubes, stir with the onion, and spread them out in the pan; cook for 5 minutes or so, tumbling them over occasionally, until they start to caramelize and stick to the pan bottom.
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4
Clear a space in the pan, and drop in the tomato paste; let it caramelize and toast in the hot spot for a minute, then stir together with the onion and potatoes.
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5
Drop in the celery and bay leaves, sprinkle on the salt, stir, and get everything sizzling, then pour in the cold water.
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6
Stir up the vegetables, cover the pot, and bring the water to a boil over high heat.
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7
Adjust the heat to keep it bubbling nicely, and cook for 30 to 40 minutes, until the potatoes start to fall apart and thicken the sauce.
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8
Drop in the cubes of fish and tomatoes, stir to distribute them, and heat the sauce back to an active simmer.
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9
Cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes or so, until the sea bass is cooked through and the tomatoes have softened and dissolved into the sauce.
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10
Before cooking the taccozzeright in the sauce itselfI shake the diamond shapes by handfuls in a colander or strainer, removing excess flour.
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11
Then I drop all of the pasta at once into the simmering sauce.
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12
Stir and lift the taccozze with tongs, separating the flat pieces if they are stuck together.
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13
Cover the pan, and bring the sauce to a boil over high heat; cook the taccozze for about 4 minutes, stirring frequently, until al dente.
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14
Serve immediately in warm soup bowls.
