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1
Soak ancho chiles in hot water to cover until softened, about 30 minutes.
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2
Drain well.
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3
While chiles soak, mince 1 whole garlic clove and mash to a paste with 1/2 tablespoon salt, 1/2 tablespoon cumin, and 1/2 tablespoon chili powder.
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4
Pat beef dry and toss with spice mixture in a large bowl until coated.
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5
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a wide 6- to 7-quart heavy pot over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown beef in 3 or 4 batches, without crowding, turning occasionally, about 5 minutes per batch (lower heat as needed; spice mixture burns easily).
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6
Transfer beef as browned to another bowl.
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7
(Do not clean pot.)
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8
Puree anchos in a blender along with tomatoes (including juice), chipotles in adobo, cilantro, remaining 2 whole garlic cloves, and remaining 1/2 tablespoon salt until smooth.
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9
Add enough oil to fat in pot to total 3 tablespoons, then cook onions and chopped garlic over moderate heat, stirring and scraping up brown bits from beef, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes.
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10
Add oregano, remaining tablespoon cumin, and remaining tablespoon chili powder and cook, stirring, 2 minutes.
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11
Add chile puree and 1 chopped serrano and simmer, stirring, 5 minutes.
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12
Stir in beer, water, and beef along with any juices accumulated in bowl and gently simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally and checking often to make sure chili is not scorching, 2 hours.
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13
Taste sauce, then add more serrano if desired and continue to simmer, partially covered, until beef is very tender and sauce is slightly thickened, 1 to 2 hours more.
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14
(If chili becomes very thick before meat is tender, thin with water as needed.)
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15
Coarsely shred meat (still in pot) with 2 forks and cool chili completely, uncovered, then chill, covered, 1 to 2 days to allow flavors to develop.
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16
Reheat over low heat, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until hot, about 30 minutes.
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17
Add beans (if using) and simmer, stirring, 5 minutes.
