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1
To make the filling, combine the daikon and salt in a bowl and toss to combine.
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2
Set aside for 15 minutes.
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3
Pour off the excess water.
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4
Transfer the daikon to a cotton (not terry) kitchen towel, hold over the sink, and squeeze to expel excess liquid.
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5
Put the daikon into a clean bowl and fluff with your fingers to separate.
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6
Use a fork or spatula to mix in the ham, scallion, sugar, white pepper, and sesame oil.
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7
Taste and, if necessary, adjust the flavors with extra salt for savory depth, sugar to reduce harshness, or sesame oil for richness.
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8
The filling can be prepared up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated.
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9
Return it to room temperature before using.
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10
You should have about 3/4 cup.
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11
If the dough was refrigerated for longer than 1 hour, let it sit out until malleable.
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12
Working on an unfloured or very lightly floured surface, use a rolling pin to gently roll the dough into an 11-inch square.
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13
This is easier to do if you work the rolling pin from the midline toward the top or bottom edge, and then roll back to the midline.
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14
Use both hands to lift up the edge closest to you and roll it all the way up to the top to form a cylinder.
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15
Roll the cylinder to even it out and lengthen it to about 12 inches long and 1 3/4 inches in diameter.
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16
To form pastries with the layers arranged in a spiral pattern, cut the dough cylinder crosswise into 12 pieces.
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17
Then use the palm and/or heel of your hand to flatten each dough piece into a 1/4-inch-thick disk.
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18
For pastries with the layers arranged in a vertical pattern, cut the dough cylinder crosswise into 6 pieces.
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19
Then halve each piece lengthwise to expose the layers as straight lines.
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20
With the cut side down, use the palm of your hand to flatten each piece into an oblong about 3 inches long and 1 3/4 inches wide.
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21
Gather the 4 corners and pinch and press them to mold the dough into a thick disk.
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22
Some of the layering will now face you.
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23
Flatten the dough pieces into 1/4-inch-thick disks.
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24
Work with half of the dough pieces at a time, keeping the other ones covered with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel.
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25
Use a skinny Asian rolling pin (dowel) to roll each one into a circle, about 3 1/2 inches in diameter.
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26
While theres no need to have a pronounced belly here, the edge should be slightly thinner than the center.
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27
(See Forming Wrappers from Basic Dumpling Dough, step 5, page 24, for guidance.)
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28
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
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29
Put the sesame seeds in a shallow bowl.
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30
To assemble a pastry, hold a wrapper in a slightly cupped hand.
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31
Use a spoon to center about 1 tablespoon of filling onto the dough circle, pressing down very gently and keeping about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of wrapper clear on all sides; your hand will automatically close slightly.
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32
Use the thumb of the hand cradling the pastry to push down the filling while the fingers of the other hand pull up the dough edge and pleat and pinch the rim together to form a closed satchel (see page 52).
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33
Pinch and twist completely closed at the end.
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34
If you have formed spiraling layers, gently flatten the pastry to prevent it from peaking too much during frying.
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35
Linear layers will expand horizontally to create oblong pastries during frying.
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36
Brush the bottom with the egg, then press it into the sesame seeds to cover the bottom.
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37
Set the finished pastry on the prepared baking sheet.
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38
Repeat, spacing the pastries about 1 1/2 inches apart on the baking sheet.
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39
If you are deep-frying the cakes, put a paper towellined platter next to the stove.
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40
Pour oil to a depth of 1 1/2 inches into a wok, deep saucepan, or Dutch oven and heat over medium-high heat to about 300F on a deepfry thermometer.
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41
Frying at an initial low temperature ensures delicate, flaky results; subsequently increasing the heat prevents the pastries from becoming greasy.
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42
(If you dont have a deep-fry thermometer, stick a dry bamboo chopstick into the oil; if it takes about 4 seconds for bubbles to rise to the surface and encircle the chopstick, the oil is ready.)
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43
Working in batches of 4 to 6 to prevent crowding, gently add the cakes to the hot oil and immediately decrease the heat to low to steady the temperature, which will quickly rise.
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44
The cakes will slowly bubble at first.
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45
Let them fry, occasionally turning gently, moderating the heat as needed to keep it at 300F, for about 3 minutes, or until they re light golden.
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46
Then raise the heat to medium-high and fry for 5 to 6 minutes, until golden brown and flaky.
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47
Let the temperature eventually hover around 340F.
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48
(Without a thermometer, do the chopstick test a couple of times as the dumplings cook; bubbles that rise after about 1 second signal 340F.)
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49
Transfer the cakes to the platter.
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50
Adjust the heat between batches.
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51
Alternatively, to bake the cakes, position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 400F.
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52
Brush the tops with egg and then bake for 15 minutes.
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53
Lower the heat to 350F and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden.
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54
Whether frying or baking, allow the cakes to cool for 5 minutes before serving.
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55
They are good warm or at room temperature, too.
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56
Leftovers can be refrigerated for several days and reheated in the oven at 350F for 15 minutes, or until gently sizzling and heated through.
