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1
To make the filling, heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat.
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2
Add the onion and ginger and saute for about 1 minute, or until fragrant.
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3
Add the pork and mushrooms and use chopsticks or a spatula to break the meat into small pieces so that it will be well distributed later.
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4
Cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes, or just until the pork is no longer pink, then remove from the heat.
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5
Add the fish sauce, noodles, and scallions and stir for about 1 minute, or until the noodles are soft and transparent.
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6
Season to taste with pepper and set aside.
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7
(The filling may be prepared up to 4 hours in advance.
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8
Let cool, cover, and refrigerate; bring to room temperature before using.)
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9
Rinse the fish well, removing any membranes and blood that the fishmonger may have overlooked.
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10
Generously rub the fish inside and out with salt, then rinse thoroughly under cold running water.
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11
Pat the fish dry with paper towels.
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12
Lay the fish flat on your work surface and, with a sharp knife, score it crosswise at 3 or 4 places, spacing the slits about 1 inch apart.
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13
(See Note for scoring tips.)
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14
Set aside a few white scallion strips for garnish and tuck the remainder into the score marks.
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15
Select a heatproof plate or nonreactive cake or pie pan 1 inch smaller in diameter than your steamer tray.
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16
(Ideally, you will be able to serve the fish from whatever you choose, thus avoiding the need to transfer it to a serving plate.)
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17
Lay the fish on the plate or pan, bending it as needed.
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18
Stuff half of the filling in the cavity and arrange the rest over the fish.
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19
Put the tomato wedges on top and place the plate in the steamer tray.
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20
Fill the steamer pan half full with water and bring to a rolling boil over high heat.
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21
Place the tray in the steamer, cover, and steam the fish for 18 to 22 minutes, or until a knife inserted at the thickest part easily pierces the flesh all the way to the bone.
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22
When the fish is done, turn off the heat.
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23
Use pot holders or a Chinese steamer retriever (see Note) to remove the plate or pan from the steamer (you may find it easier to put the steamer tray on the counter first).
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24
Since the dish is hot, I like to slide it onto a platter and carry it to the table.
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25
If you want to transfer the fish to a warmed serving platter, use 2 wide spatulas, and remember to pour the delicious juices onto the platter, too.
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26
Garnish with the reserved scallion strips and the cilantro.
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27
Serve immediately.
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28
For beautiful score marks, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle to the backbone, with the blade pointed toward the head.
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29
Make the first cut about 1 inch below the collar and continue from there.
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30
Stop 2 inches from the tail or it may break off during cooking.
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31
Each cut should be about three-fourths of the way to the bone.
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32
A Chinese steamer retriever is an ingenious three-armed gadget that expands to grip onto the lip of a bowl or plate used for steaming, making removal from a hot steamer tray a snap.
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33
Constructed of thin aluminum and plastic, it looks wimpy but isnt.
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34
Put your thumb through the ring and move the plastic part like a syringe.
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35
The arms open and close to reach around an item and grasp it tight.
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36
This inexpensive gadget is sold at Chinese housewares and restaurant-supply shops.
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37
Remember, though, it only works on dishes with a lip.
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38
Once you have delivered the fish to the table, take the lead to serve your guests.
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39
Use a serving spoon to dig into and lift pieces of flesh gracefully from the bone.
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40
Th e score marks are good guides.
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41
Make sure garnishes and juices are included with each portion.
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42
Once the top side has been eaten, gently peel the central bone away from the flesh.
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43
This may be done by holding the neck with chopsticks and peeling it back from head to tail, or vice versa.
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44
Toward the end, use the serving spoon to support the removal of the bone in one piece.
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45
Set the bone to one side of the platter.
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46
Carefully push the short bones edging the fish away from the flesh and continue the feast.
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47
It is customary to eat both the skin and the flesh of a whole fish.
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48
The fish cheeks are saved for special guests.
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49
And the eyes are for connoisseurs.
