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1
Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
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2
Plunge the crabs in and cook for less than a minute, just until they stop kicking (Dungeness crabs will take a little longer).
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3
Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water.
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4
Working over a bowl (to save any liquid or soft parts that come out), break off the apron, the triangle of shell on the crabs bottom, then remove the upper shell entirely (save any innards attached to it).
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5
On each side of the crab, you will find the gillstheyre spongy and off-whiteremove and discard them.
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6
Now cut the crab into quarters.
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7
To make eating easier, use the back of your knife to crack the claws.
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8
Put the ginger, garlic, shallots, and chiles in a food processor and process until minced.
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9
Put the oil in a wok or large skillet and place over medium-high heat; a minute later, add the minced seasonings and cook, stirring constantly, for about 30 seconds.
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10
Stir in the tomato paste, lime juice, nam pla, soy sauce, sugar, and 2 tablespoons water.
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11
Add the crab and coat with the sauce.
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12
Cook just until the sauce is bubbling and the crab is heated through, about 5 minutes, then stir in any reserved crab parts or liquid and cook for another minute.
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13
Serve the crabs on a platter, with the sauce spooned over and around them.
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14
To eat, pick out the meat with your fingers and dip in the surrounding sauce.
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15
Simpler, milder, and very good: In step 2, for seasoning, use 6 scallions, trimmed and roughly chopped, and 2 tablespoons peeled and minced or shredded fresh ginger.
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16
Use peanut oil if possible; heat, add the ginger and scallions, and cook for about 15 seconds, then add the crab.
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17
Add a large pinch of coarse salt and 3 tablespoons Shaoxing wine, dry sherry, or sake.
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18
Cook, stirring frequently, until the crabs are done, about 5 minutes.
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19
Stir in 1 tablespoon soy sauce and 1 teaspoon dark sesame oil and serve.
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20
Far, far easier, not as exotic, but delicious: Omit the crabs and step 1.
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21
Proceed as directed, using about 1 pound small peeled shrimp in step 2.
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22
Cooking time will be about the same.
