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1
Place the onions and ginger directly on the cooking grate of a medium-hot charcoal or gas grill or a gas stove with a medium flame, or on a medium-hot burner of an electric stove.
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2
Let the skin burn (if youre working indoors, turn on the exhaust fan and open a window), using tongs to rotate the onions and ginger occasionally and to grab and discard any flyaway onion skin.
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3
After 15 minutes, the onions and ginger will have softened slightly and become sweetly fragrant.
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4
There may even be some bubbling.
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5
You do not have to blacken the entire surface.
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6
When amply charred, remove from the heat and let cool.
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7
Rinse the cooled onions under warm running water, rubbing off the charred skin.
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8
Trim off and discard the blackened root and stem ends.
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9
Use a vegetable peeler, paring knife, or the edge of a teaspoon to remove the ginger skin.
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10
Hold it under warm water to wash off any blackened bits.
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11
Halve the ginger lengthwise and bruise lightly with the broad side of a cleaver or chefs knife.
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12
Set the onions and ginger aside.
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13
Rinse the chicken under cool water.
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14
Detach each wing by bending it back and cutting it off at the shoulder joint.
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15
Add the wings and neck, if included, to the chicken parts.
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16
If the heart, gizzard, and liver have been included, discard them or save for another use.
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17
(Some cooks like to simmer the heart and gizzard in water and slice them for adding to the noodle bowls.)
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18
Set the wingless chicken aside.
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19
Remove and discard any loose pieces of fat from the chicken parts.
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20
Wielding a heavy cleaver designed for chopping bones, whack the bones to break them partway or all the way through, making the cuts at 1- to 2-inch intervals, depending on the size of the part.
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21
This exposes the marrow, which enriches the broth.
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22
To achieve a clear broth, you must first parboil and rinse the chicken parts.
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23
Put them in a stockpot (about 12-quart capacity) and add cold water just to cover.
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24
Bring to a boil over high heat and boil vigorously for 2 to 3 minutes to release the impurities.
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25
Dump the chicken parts and water into the sink (make sure it is clean), and then rinse the parts with water to wash off any clinging residue.
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26
Quickly scrub the stockpot clean and return the chicken parts to it.
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27
Add the chicken, breast side up.
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28
Pour in the 5 quarts water and snuggle the chicken in between the parts so that it is covered with water.
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29
Bring to a boil over high heat and then lower the heat to a gentle simmer.
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30
Use a ladle or large, shallow spoon to skim off any scum that rises to the top.
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31
Add the onions, ginger, salt, fish sauce, rock sugar, coriander seeds, cloves, and cilantro and cook, uncovered, for 25 minutes, adjusting the heat if needed to maintain a gentle simmer.
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32
At this point, the chicken is cooked; its flesh should feel firm yet still yield a bit to the touch.
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33
Use a pair of tongs to grab the chicken and transfer it to a large bowl.
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34
Flush the chicken with cold water and drain well, then set it aside for 15 to 20 minutes until it is cool enough to handle.
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35
Meanwhile, keep the broth at a steady simmer.
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36
When the chicken can be handled, use a knife to remove each breast half and the whole legs (thigh and drumstick).
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37
Dont cut these pieces further, or they will lose their succulence.
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38
Set them aside on a plate to cool completely, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate; bring them to room temperature before assembling the bowls.
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39
Return the left over carcass to the stockpot and adjust the heat to simmer the broth gently for another 1 1/2 hours.
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40
Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve (or a coarse-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth) positioned over a pot.
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41
Discard the solids.
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42
Use a ladle to skim as much fat from the top of the broth as you like.
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43
(To make this task easier, you can cool the broth, refrigerate overnight, lift off the solidified fat, and then reheat before continuing.)
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44
Taste and adjust the flavor with additional salt, fish sauce, and rock sugar.
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45
There should be about 4 quarts (16 cups) broth.
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46
If using dried noodles, cover them with hot tap water and let soak for 15 to 20 minutes, or until they are pliable and opaque.
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47
Drain in a colander.
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48
If using fresh rice noodles, untangle them, place in a colander, and rinse briefly under cold running water.
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49
Cut the cooked chicken into slices about 1/4 inch thick, cutting the meat off the bone as necessary.
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50
If you dont want to eat the skin, discard it first.
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51
Set the chicken aside.
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52
Ready the yellow onion, scallions, cilantro, and pepper for adding to the bowls.
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53
Arrange the garnishes on a plate and put on the table.
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54
To ensure good timing, bring the broth to a simmer over medium heat as you are assembling the bowls.
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55
(For an extra treat, drop in any unused white scallion sections and let them poach in the broth.
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56
Add the poached scallion sectionscalled hanh chanto a few lucky bowls when ladling out the broth.)
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57
At the same time, fill a large pot with water and bring to a rolling boil.
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58
For each bowl, place a portion of the noodles on a vertical-handle strainer (or mesh sieve) and dunk the noodles in the boiling water.
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59
As soon as they have collapsed and lost their stiffness (10 to 20 seconds), pull the strainer from the water, letting the water drain back into the pot.
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60
Empty the noodles into a bowl.
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61
If you like, once you have finished blanching the noodles, you can blanch the bean sprouts for 30 seconds.
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62
They should wilt slightly but retain some crunch.
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63
Drain and add to the garnishes.
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64
Top each bowl of noodles with chicken, arranging the slices flat.
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65
Place a mound of yellow onion in the center and then shower some scallion and cilantro on top.
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66
Finish each bowl with a sprinkle of pepper.
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67
Raise the heat and bring the broth to a rolling boil.
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68
Do a final tasting and make any last-minute flavor adjustments.
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69
Ladle about 2 cups broth into each bowl, distributing the hot liquid evenly to warm all the ingredients.
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70
Serve immediately with the plate of garnishes.
