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1
Whisk together the sugar, soy sauce, and rice wine and then toss with the chicken or shrimp.
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2
While it sits, put 2 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet and turn the heat to medium-high.
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3
A minute later, add the mushrooms, scallions, and bean sprouts; cook, stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes.
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4
Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon.
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5
Add another tablespoon of oil to the skillet and cook the ginger, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
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6
Add the chicken or shrimp and its marinade and cook until it loses its pinkness, stirring occasionally to separate the pieces, about 3 minutes.
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7
Return the vegetables to the pan, mix well with the chicken or shrimp, and cook for another minute.
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8
Remove the mixture with a slotted spoon.
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9
(You can prepare this filling, covered and refrigerated, up to a day in advance.)
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10
Add at least 3 inches of oil to a heavy saucepan or deep-fryer (a narrow vessel will save you oil; a broad one will allow you to cook more egg rolls at once); heat over medium-high heat until it reaches about 350F.
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11
Meanwhile, moisten the edges of an egg roll wrapper with water and put 2 tablespoons of the filling down a line in the center; fold in the sides and roll tightly.
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12
Seal the seam with a few drops of water.
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13
Working in batches, place the egg rolls in the oil and turn occasionally to brown evenly; the cooking will be easy and quick, about 5 minutes per batch (you just have to heat them through and brown the outside; everything inside is already cooked).
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14
Adjust the heat as necessary so that the egg rolls brown evenly.
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15
As they finish, drain on paper towels.
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16
Serve hot, with any of the sauces.
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17
Omit the chicken or shrimp and use both bean sprouts and Napa cabbage, along with 2 cups shredded or grated carrots.
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18
These are egg rolls Southeast Asian style, often wrapped in a leaf of red or green lettuce before serving, making a nice contrast between hot and cold.
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19
Substitute twenty 8- to 10-inch rice paper sheets for the egg roll wrappers.
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20
Soften the rice paper in hot water (110120F) for about 10 seconds (see page 38 for details).
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21
Fill and roll them on a damp kitchen or paper towel; you wont need water to seal.
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22
Fry and serve immediately with Sweet Nam Pla Dipping Sauce (page 586) or plain soy sauce.
