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1
The mushroom filling: In a medium skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons oil or lard over medium heat.
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2
Add the mushrooms, chiles, and epazote (if you're using cilantro, set it aside to add later), stir well, and cover.
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3
Continue to stir every minute or so, replacing the cover each time, until the mushrooms have released a lot of juice, 4 to 5 minutes.
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4
Uncover, and let briskly simmer until all the liquid has evaporated, about 3 minutes.
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5
Taste and season with salt, usually about 1/4 teaspoon.
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6
Add the cilantro now, if that's what you're using.
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7
Forming and griddle-baking the quesadillas: Heat a well-seasoned or nonstick griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat.
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8
Turn the oven on to its lowest setting.
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9
One by one, make the quesadillas: Lightly brush 1 side of each tortilla with oil, then lay it oiled side down on the hot griddle.
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10
Spread with about 1/4 cup of the cheese, leaving a 1/2-inch border all around.
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11
Spoon about 3 tablespoons of the mushroom mixture down the center of the cheese-covered tortilla.
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12
When the cheese begins to melt (but before the tortilla begins to crisp), fold the tortilla in half along the line of the filling.
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13
Cook, flipping the quesadilla every minute or so, until the cheese is completely melted and the tortilla crisps, about 5 minutes in all.
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14
As each quesadilla is done, transfer it to a baking sheet and keep in a warm oven.
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15
Serving the quesadillas.
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16
When all the quesadillas are done, set them out in a cloth-lined basket.
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17
Pass the salsa separately for each guest to spoon on.