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1
Light a grill or set your broiler on high and give it a 15-minute head start.
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2
Cut out the chickens backbone with poultry shears, a cleaver or a sharp, heavy chefs knife.
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3
(If you think you will make stock at some point, by all means tightly wrap the backbone in plastic and put it in the freezer.)
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4
Place the chicken skin side up in a roasting pan and press firmly on the breast with the heels of your hands until it cracks and flattens.
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5
Position the legs so they lie flat and the drumsticks point out.
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6
Tuck the wingtips over the tops of the wings to hold them in place, or cut them off.
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7
Rub the bird with the oil.
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8
(Dont worry about any extra oil that may fall onto the pan.)
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9
Now wash your hands.
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10
Coarsely grind the fennel, coriander, peppercorns and cumin with a mortar and pestle or with 8 or 9 pulses in a spice grinder.
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11
Mix in the salt and paprika or pimenton and sprinkle this rub on both sides of the bird, with the emphasis on the skin.
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12
Set the chicken skin side down on a grill or skin side up on a broiler rack positioned so the highest point of the bird is 5 or 6 inches from the flame.
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13
When the skin begins to brown after 6 or 7 minutes, flip the chicken over.
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14
(The easiest way is to grab the knobby ends of both drumsticks with several layers of paper towels if you are in the kitchen, or with clean oven mitts if you are grilling.)
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15
After about 10 minutes, when the bony side is browned, lower the heat to medium-high, flip the chicken again and cook another 10 minutes, or until the skin is very crisp and brown and the thickest part of the thigh reaches 165 degrees when checked with a meat thermometer.
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16
Let it rest about 5 minutes before carving.
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17
(If you are grilling, set it on a platter.)
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18
Spoon over any juices that have collected in the broiler pan or the platter.
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19
Serve with lemon.
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20
In springtime, try to serve this with tender young bitter greens like arugula, watercress or baby dandelions tossed in a sharp vinaigrette.
