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1
Bring medium pot of water to a boil and salt it.
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2
Stir in brown rice, adjust heat so that water bubbles steadily, and cook without stirring, until rice is swollen and half-tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
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3
Drain.
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4
(If you want to wait a bit before proceeding, spread the rice on a platter or sheet tray so it cools.)
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5
Put oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat.
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6
When its hot, add onion or shallot and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens, 3 to 5 minutes.
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7
Add rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is glossy and coated with oil, about 5 minutes.
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8
Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then stir in the squash; add the wine.
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9
Stir and let liquid bubble away.
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10
Begin to add the stock, about 1/2 cup at a time, stirring after each addition and every minute or so.
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11
When the stock is just about evaporated, add more.
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12
Keep the heat medium to medium-high and stir frequently.
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13
When rice is just about tender and mixture is creamy, stir in shellfish or meat and continue to cook, adding more liquid if necessary, until rice is tender.
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14
The final dish should be quite moist but not soupy.
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15
Add Parmesan if youre using it, then taste and add more salt or pepper (or both) if necessary.
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16
Garnish with basil or parsley and serve.
