Brioche and Brioche Relatives

1. 1

   To make the sponge, stir together the flour and yeast in a large mixing bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer).

2. 2

   Stir in the milk until all the flour is hydrated.

3. 3

   Cover with plastic wrap and ferment for 20 minutes, or until the sponge rises and then falls when you tap the bowl.

4. 4

   To make the dough, add the eggs to the sponge and whisk (or beat on medium speed with the paddle attachment) until smooth.

5. 5

   In a separate bowl, stir together the flour, sugar, and salt.

6. 6

   Add this mixture to the sponge and eggs and stir (or continue to mix with the paddle on low speed for about 2 minutes) until all the ingredients are hydrated and evenly distributed.

7. 7

   Let this mixture rest for 5 minutes so that the gluten can begin to develop.

8. 8

   Then, while mixing with a large spoon (or on medium speed with the paddle), gradually work in the butter, about one-quarter at a time, waiting until each addition of butter assimilates before adding more.

9. 9

   This will take a few minutes.

10. 10

    Continue mixing for about 6 more minutes, or until the dough is very well mixed.

11. 11

    You will have to scrape down the bowl from time to time as the dough will cling to it.

12. 12

    The dough will be very smooth and soft.

13. 13

    Line a sheet pan with baking parchment and mist lightly with spray oil.

14. 14

    Transfer the dough to the sheet pan, spreading it to form a large, thick rectangle measuring about 6 inches by 8 inches.

15. 15

    Mist the top of the dough with spray oil and cover the pan with plastic wrap or place it in a large food-grade plastic bag.

16. 16

    Immediately put the pan into the refrigerator and chill overnight, or for at least 4 hours.

17. 17

    Remove the dough from the refrigerator and shape it while it is very cold.

18. 18

    If it warms up or softens, return it to the refrigerator.

19. 19

    If you are making brioches a tete, lightly oil or use spray oil to grease the fluted molds.

20. 20

    Divide the dough into 12 to 16 portions for petites brioches a tete and 2 to 4 portions for larger shapes.

21. 21

    (The size of each portion should correspond to the size of the molds; petites brioches a tete are typically 1 1/2 to 2 ounces each, while larger versions can range from 1 to 2 pounds.

22. 22

    Whatever size you are making, the molds should only be half full with dough to allow for expansion during proofing.)

23. 23

    Shape the petites brioches a tete into small balls (see page 82) and the larger ones into boules(see page 72).

24. 24

    Proceed with shaping instructions shown below.

25. 25

    Place the molds on a sheet pan after final shaping.

26. 26

    If you are making loaves, grease two 8 1/2 by 4 1/2-inch loaf pans.

27. 27

    Divide the dough into 3 pieces and shape the dough into loaves.

28. 28

    Mist the top of the dough with spray oil and loosely cover with plastic wrap, or slip the pan(s) into a food-grade plastic bag.

29. 29

    Proof the dough until it nearly fills the molds or loaf pans, 1 1/2 to 2 hours for petites brioches a tete and longer for larger shapes.

30. 30

    Gently brush the tops with egg wash. Cover the dough with plastic wrap that has been lightly misted with spray oil.

31. 31

    Continue proofing for another 15 to 30 minutes, or until the dough fills the molds or pans.

32. 32

    Preheat the oven to 400F with the oven rack on the middle shelf for petites brioches a tete, or 350F for larger shapes.

33. 33

    Bake for about 15 to 20 minutes for petites brioches a tete and 35 to 50 minutes for larger shapes.

34. 34

    The internal temperature should register above 180F for the small ones and about 190F for the larger shapes.

35. 35

    The bread should sound hollow when thumped on the bottom and be golden brown.

36. 36

    Remove the brioches or loaves from the pans as soon as they come out of the oven and cool on a rack for at least 20 minutes for small brioches and 1 hour for larger shapes before serving.

37. 37

    Method 1: Dust your hands with flour and, using the edge of your hand (A), divide a ball of dough into a large and small ball by rolling down, but not quite all the way through, the dough.

38. 38

    (B) Place the large ball into the oiled brioche mold and use the tips of your fingers to indent the top and to round and center the smaller ball.

39. 39

    Method 2: Roll the dough into a strand that tapers at one end.

40. 40

    (A) Poke a hole in the thick end and (B) loop the tapered end through it so that it pops out and forms a cap.

41. 41

    Round the cap into a ball and center it on the larger portion.

42. 42

    Place it in the oiled brioche mold.

43. 43

    When a formula calls for lots of fat, whether butter, shortening, or oil, it is usually beneficial to wait until the gluten has had an opportunity to develop before adding the fat.

44. 44

    If the fat is added at the beginning, it coats the protein fragments (gliadin and glutenin) and makes it difficult for them to bond into the longer, stronger gluten molecule.

45. 45

    Wait 5 minutes before incorporating the fat to allow complete hydration to occur.

46. 46

    Of course, there are cakelike variations of brioche in which the butter is intentionally added with the flour to create a very tender, tight-crumbed bread, almost like pound cake.

47. 47

    If you desire this texture or application, simply add the butter early on and ignore the chill-down step, transferring the batter, with a spoon or spatula, to a greased pan right after the primary fermentation.

48. 48

    To make brioche a tete, you will need a special fluted brioche mold, available at gourmet kitchen shops.

49. 49

    These molds come in many sizes, but I find the small 2-ounce molds to be the most functional.

50. 50

    The larger molds are nice for special holiday or festive breads like panettone.

51. 51

    Remember to increase the baking time to account for the dough size.

52. 52

    (All three brioche variations can be made as standard rolls; see page 82 for shaping.)

53. 53

    The Rich Mans Brioche that follows is even richer than the version presented in Crust & Crumb.

54. 54

    That one was about 70 percent butter to flour; this version is about 88 percent butter to flour.

55. 55

    The yeast percentage is thus higher to provide the necessary push, and the sponge is very fast, needing only 20 minutes to develop.

56. 56

    It is best mixed in an electric mixer with a paddle attachment, but it can also be mixed by hand with a sturdy spoon and a strong arm.

57. 57

    Rich Mans Brioche %

58. 58

    (SPONGE)

59. 59

    Bread flour: 12.3%

60. 60

    Instant yeast: 1.8%

61. 61

    Milk: 21.9%

62. 62

    (DOUGH)

63. 63

    Eggs: 45.2%

64. 64

    Bread flour: 87.7%

65. 65

    Sugar: 6.8%

66. 66

    Salt: 2.1%

67. 67

    Butter: 87.7%

68. 68

    Total: 265.5%

* Per serving · 4 servings · Values may vary.